The Adventures

Minnesnowda

2011-11-20T11:02:00.131+09:00

Mid-America has never been on my To-Travel list, however a cheap bus ride plus the opportunity to meet a good old friend made me re-consider. Whenever I thought of Minnesota, images of ... basically nothing popped in my head. From what I was told by my friend KP, a native of Minneapolis, it didn't seem too different from central Canada.

horse sculpture created by Kristen Piersa

Who knew a MegaBus ride from Chicago to Minneapolis would only cost $1.50!? Well, that was the first sign that I was destined to visit the home of the Vikings. The 8 hour bus ride felt nothing longer than about 3 hours due to the free wife and power outlets provided. This was definitely a HUGE difference to my previous experiences of travelling by bus in Asia .

hanging out in Minnetonka

My friend KP was my generous host. As a local artist she knew where to take me to get the real perspective on this state. I learned that Minnesota is where all the hippie artists went and as a result, it's a living alternative art community. I had the opportunity to experience Minnetonka, which is rural Minnesota, an area filled with rich acres of horse ranches, barns, lakes, artists (new and old) and sculptures.

The landscape was beautiful even on a chilly November day and made for a great day of photo snapping.

Minneapolis is also home to the Walker Art Center, considered to be one of the top 10 galleries of the nation. It's free on Thursdays after 6pm and you definitely need to have an open mind about art when walking in. The gallery is filled entirely of installations which are meant to evoke your emotions and abstract art. It was a unique experience to say the least!

the sculpture park The Walker

Across from the Walker is the Minneapolis sculpture garden which is 11 acres of local art, including a greenhouse. It's fun to roam around, and an ideal spot for photo snapping. Plus it's free and outdoors. Aside from all the art that there is to explore, the happy hours at the local pubs are pretty great. I finally had a chance to try fried pickles and fried zucchini, apparently typical pub grub in America. The bars here also serve more local beers which is refreshing. My favourite was Summit which has different brews for different seasons.

Downtown Minneapolis

Minneapolis is divided into uptown and downtown. There are pockets of ghettos in this city and the largest migrated population of Somalis are located here (fun fact!). It was a lot more multicultural than I had anticipated for a mid-west city.

Being here I also realize that Minnesota folks aren't much different from their neighbours in the north. Besides, the state is directly north of Manitoba, and the accent and culture is very different from what I have so far experience in America.

KP insisted that I could not leave Minneapolis without trying a Juicy Lucy at Matt's Bar, a typical American bar located in a small neighbourhood. Really, I felt like I was in a movie!
Well, one bite and I knew why everything was bigger in America! Beef patties with melted cheese inside the patties... YUM!

Minnesota exceeded all of my misconceptions of this state. It felt like home due to the cold yet still foreign (maybe it was the accent and the Mexicans! btw, how do they handle this cold?!).
Unfortunately the most popular tourist attraction in this state is the Mall of America, the largest mall in the country with 500 stores. And yes, I checked that place out too.. more than once.

my host KP and her inspirations

Canada's Capital

2011-08-23T05:31:00.073+09:00

This was first time I had the opportunity to explore Canada's capital at my leisure, with the company of my two cousins. Ottawa was surprisingly more entertaining than I had expected, but summers in Canadian cities are usually the best time to explore due to the wonderful weather and the numerous outdoor events that take place.

After the 5 hour drive from Toronto, we wandered the downtown streets in search of interesting sites. The Fairmont Chateau Laurier sits smack in the middle of the Rideau Canal, creating quite the landscape. Ottawa is easy to travel around on foot and the city is easy to navigate.
It's picturesque with the St. Lawrence River in the distance, making it feel like real capital city. I don't remember Ottawa being so pretty, but that's because the last time I visited was in the winter.

The patios open up in the summer causing quite a buzz by night. We didn't have the chance to check out any nightlife due to hanging out with a minor, but the city did seem alive by midnight.

We went to the family friendly event that took place nightly at Parliament Hill; a light and sound show that highlighted the notable events of Canadian history. It lasted about 20 minutes but felt much longer due to the declining temperature. It would have been wise to bring a blanket.

nutella banana beaver tail

Our final day was spent wandering the historic Byward Market, filled with souvenirs, produce and everything in between. We couldn't leave Ottawa without trying Beaver Tails, which I'm ashamed to admit being Canadian and all. However they were what I dreamed of and more! It was overwhelming standing at the counter, not knowing which concoction of tail to first try. But I later realized you can't be disappointed, no matter what you choose.

hanging out at Byward Market

chillin with guards

Canada's Oldest Provincial Park

2011-08-08T04:47:00.052+09:00

Four girls in a tent in Ontario's biggest national park for two nights?
Yes, it really happened!

The 5 hour drive north to Algonquin Provincial Park was scenic and winding. We were blessed with sunny skies and a warm breeze that made the drive much more pleasurable. Once inside the park it was another 40 kilometre drive to our camping spot at Rock Lake. Reservations are required to camp at the park and luckily Ontario Parks has a pretty organized online system where you can choose your spot via an interactive map. However you do need to know which location within the park you want to camp at beforehand. Within Algonquin Park there are eight campgrounds located just on highway 60. Rock Lake was chosen randomly based on what was available. There are a few more campgrounds further north and the option of backcountry camping as well for those who truly love the outdoors.

Algonquin Park is the most popular spot to camp in all of Canada due to its history and its rich biodiversity.
Canada's most popular artists, The Group of Seven, used Algonquin Park as their muse in the early 1900's making the landscapes popular all over Canada. The park has also been named a National Historic Site of Canada and once at the park, there are a few museums you can visit to get more of an understanding as to why it's so popular and how its well preserved.

The park also has 14 trails on which you can spot wild animals such as a moose, deer, and birds. One of the most popular activities at the park is canoeing since there are numerous lakes that are part of the park. Renting a canoe is easy to do since most companies will also deliver to your campsite but also expensive. It is cheaper to bring your own or rent one at the store on your way to your campsite.

Rock Lake has a small stretch of a sandy beach and the water was lukewarm in early August. The water is simply beautiful, reflecting like glass as the sun beams down on it.
The campsites were all filled up making it quite busy. There were more RVs than tents as well.

Camping for me is about relaxing with nothing else to do. Once the tents were up, it was all about hanging out by the beach by day and making smores over the fire by night. Although we had plans of trekking and canoeing, we all succumbed to doing nothing at all (and playing poker).

As a bunch of girls camping on our own we faced a huge challenge - how do we get our fire to start?
We were lucky to have experienced campers nearby that helped us start our fire. It really is harder than it looks! Firewood can only be purchased at the campsite office and kindling wood is highly recommended.

Our second challenge was unintentional - our campsite was also the home to a beehive. After numerous attempts of trying to kill all the bees that began to nest in one of our tents, we did have to call the park warden for help. The only solution to getting rid of bees is to smoke them out. Sure enough once the campfire started they began to diminish. However it was a serious buzzkill (pun intended!) especially since one of my friends did get stung by a bee. But I suppose those are the challenges of an outdoor vacation.
You also need to be prepared for the outdoors since the weather can get quite chilly at night even if it is a warm day. It's a drive away to civilization (such as stores) so we were glad we did all of our last minute shopping before hitting up the site.
The park office does sell ice along with firewood. Most of the campsites also have showers and (clean) toilets.

Most people choose to camp closer to home since five hours of driving can be a lot to just get away from the city. In my opinion it's well worth the drive up north because Algonquin park is like no other! It is the epitome of Canadian beauty being completely serene.
The campsites are not as isolated as you would think when you envision the biggest national park in Ontario, but it is clean, adventurous and Ontario at its best.

Upstate Wine Country

2011-07-24T04:41:00.061+09:00

A 5 hour drive south east of Toronto brings you across the border into upstate New York. The wine region here is located amidst the Finger Lakes, creating beautiful landscapes and an epic wine tasting environment. Maria and I took a weekend road trip to visit my friend who lives in Seneca Falls, also home to the New York Chiropractic College. It was the first time I came across a university country town.

Seneca Falls is a beautiful small town especially in the summer. It's not the typical site of a university - the winding roads are lined with country homes and small farms. The summer brings intense humidity but thankfully the lakes are nearby. It reminded me of cottage country.

There isn't much to do in this area but visit wineries and taste various wines and whiskeys. Each tasting cost about $2-$3 and included 5-7 tastings. This was a deal in comparison to Ontario's wine country (Niagara on the Lake) where EACH tasting would have cost $2! Snacks were also provided and we had a designated driver in tow. It made for a wonderful Saturday of wine tasting where in the end, we were all pretty unsure of which wines we tasted but we knew for sure we had a fantastic time.

In total we were able to visit seven wineries in a matter of hours. These included
Eleven Lakes, Cobblestone, Knapp, Goosewatch, Buttonwood, Cayuga Ridge and Thirsty Owl.
Each winery had its own character. This area is a photographer's dream, creating picture perfect landscapes meshed with green grass and sparkling waters.

It's a day well spent and not too far away is the town of Ithaca, a hippie's dream. It's what one would imagine of an American small town - the downtown area is pedestrian friendly, has loads of hemp shops and cafes, and international cuisine is not hard to find.

At first glance Seneca Falls looks like a boring old country town, and everything is a drive away. Surprisingly I really enjoyed my weekend here due to all the wonderful people I met that made it very eventful.
It goes to show that you can't judge a place by it's first appearance. All it takes is some time to get to know the nooks and the locals (or the locals who can show you the cool nooks) to make any place worth the visit.

In and Around Ochi

2011-06-22T06:25:00.020+09:00

A Caribbean vacation is incomplete without a couple of day trips sprinkled throughout the week. I get antsy lying on the beach all day long.

view of Ocho Rios

sting ray

Our first trip was to swim with the dolphins; something that I have wanted to do for years but never had the opportunity to do (it's not a big thing in Asia). Dolphin Cove is an attraction created for this purpose alone. We got to swim with Skye, a gorgeous female dolphin who was friendly and I was more scared of her than she was of me. We go to hold on to her fin and swim about a meter and she also came around to 'dance' with us. Initially I was scared to get anywhere near her, but she did a great job of making me comfortable. She was super cute and I don't think I've ever been so close to an animal before. Along with swimming with dolphins we also got to snorkel with sting rays in a shallow pool area. The sting rays were stinger free and we also got to hold them (which was difficult with their slimy skin).

snorkelling in the Caribbean Sea

Our second trip was to the infamous Dunn River Falls. We were taken to the falls on a boat and we hiked up the falls as the water came gushing down at us. We were led by a guide and accompanied by 500 other tourists. It wasn't the ideal way to see the falls at all, but being a major touristic destination it was the only way to do it. Our guide also rushed us all the way through, making us all quite irritable. There are also guides with cameras trying to video tape your every move so they can sell it to you once you reach the top. The overly eager touristic approach is quite annoying and ruins the entire experience. There were even women wanting to braid our hair at the top of the falls!

climbing the falls was teamwork

Thankfully our excursion ended with a booze cruise on top a catamaran blasting reggae and soca music. They came fully equipped with Red Stipe beer and boat dancers who jumped with the waves. It felt like we were in a music video! This was a definite highlight of my trip.

Our final trip was to Nine Mile, the resting place of Bob Marley and his childhood home. Nine Mile is also the only place in Jamaica where you are legally allowed to smoke marijuana. Once inside the gates, there are people selling and rolling the green for those interested. Our guide was a Rastafarian who explained the life of Marley and claimed he personally knew Bob's mother (who is also resting next door to Bob). To be honest, I'm not sure how much of Nine Mile is authentic. Bob had lived in this house as a child, before he moved to Kingston to become part of the Wailers. However his mother and grandparents continued to live there. The furniture inside the one room house also belonged to Bob, but I guess we will never know how much of it is all true. It was a magical experience however to see Bob Marley's mausoleum since he is one of my favourite artists of all time. Nine Mile is also a drive away into the countryside amidst mountains. The scenery and the locals we encountered finally gave us an authentic feel for the country.

The town of Ocho Rios is safe to venture out on your own. On one side of the main road is a local market; all the stalls sell the exact same odds and ends. Opposite the market are plazas with shops which sell the SAME odds and ends but with less buying pressure, hence the prices are a bit increased. Bargaining skills are essential for the market. I lasted about five whole minutes before rushing right out of there!

Jamaicans are friendly and helpful, but can also be a bit overwhelming with the sales tactic. I especially enjoyed my daily dose of beef patties and jerk chicken! But a return trip to Jamaica doesn't seem to be on the horizon although all my travel buddies seem to disagree. I'm sure it has something to do with their obsession with Patois and reggae music.

Jamaican Me Craazy 'Mon!

2011-06-17T06:40:00.037+09:00

the view of Ocho Rios from my balcony

After 3 days of coming home to Toronto, I jet off to Ocho Rios, Jamaica with 5 girlfriends for a week of all-inclusive fun. The 4 star hotel-allucaneatanddrink/party all night type vacay is not my style but when in Toronto, you gotta go with what's the cheapest deal.

Ocho Rios is a 2 hour drive from Montego Bay, the big city where the resort tourist flights all land. It's known as a quieter strip of beach, ideal for couples and families. My attraction to Ocho Rios was due to it's close proximity to Dunn's River Falls and from personal recommendations.

We stayed at the Jamaica Sunset Grande which served buffet style meals 3 times a day, had 2 grills open where they served Jerk chicken and burgers, 3 ethnic restaurants (Chinese, Caribbean and Italian) plus a night club. From the outside it was well kept but once inside the rooms, it was no pretty party.

My biggest gripe with all inclusive vacations is the uneasy feeling of being 'stuck' on the resort. All the trips are organized through various travel agencies and of course, you are constantly being ripped off.
You just have to suck it up and go with the flow, and try to drink your money's worth. Luckily in Jamaica, they aren't stingy on their liquor.

snorkeling on the beach

We were blessed with endless sunshine although weather networks seem to consistently predict thunderstorms for this island. Our first 2 days has consisted of lazing in the sun and hanging out in the pool. The hotel also has a waterslide, 3 pools, a private beach (which is really a bay and a Carnival cruise boat docks here every few days blocking the view) and a swim up bar.
It's definitely relaxing to be by water in this heat but the laziness is taking a toll on me.

Our first night out was out in the town of Ochie (as the locals call it). A few locals we met offered to take us to a local joint where there was a mix of tourists and Jamaicans. The air stank of marijuana the second we stepped off hotel property and people were offering us the green like it was going out of style! Jamaica loves to party, that's for sure! The only type of music you are going to hear here is homegrown - reggae, dancehall, calypso and soca.

What I Love about Korea

2011-06-09T19:59:00.000+09:00

My first time leaving Korea I was compelled to write about what I would miss and not miss about this wonderful country.
You can read that list HERE!

This is my FINAL goodbye.. I feel emotional just typing that, but after 3 memorable years in the land of the morning calm, it's time for me to part. I am left with nostalgia for so many things that I have come to love which have also become an essential part of my life.

These essentials are the following:

1. 24 hour Family Mart - they are in every corner in Korea! Luckily I also have one right on the ground floor of my building, and I love knowing that I can go get a bottle of water, a carton of milk or some ramyeon in my PJ's at any time of day. It's such a convenience that I usually take it for granted.

2. Norebong - aka the singing room. You can sing your heart out in a private room, bring your own alcohol and snacks and party down with your friends at any time of day or night. Another 24 hour operation found in every nook and cranny of Korean streets. It's so much fun and nothing really compares to the random images flashed on the screens while you singing your fave 90's pop tune.

*image source: http://playaslife.com/2010/07/08/the-pc-room-pc-bang-culture/

3. Fastest Internet in the World - people usually drop their jaws when I tell them I can download a movie under 20 mins here. I can also download an entire season of a TV show in less an hour usually. There is no lagging and waiting for things to load. And you don't get charged for how much you download! Plus wi-fi is easily accessible in most of the tourist spots in Busan, such as the beach. When it comes to internet technology, Korea really can't be beat.

*image source: http://www.seoulstyle.com/art_naked.htm

4. Jimjilbang - another 24 hour wonder that makes complete sense and I'm kept left baffled wondering why the western world hasn't quite adapted yet. It's a simple idea of a sauna, filled with hot tubs at different degrees. The bathing part is a single sex area where you get butt naked and enjoy yourself in the way nature intended. It's quite liberating and this is just the beginning! You can even pay a little extra to get an adjuma (older Korean woman) to exfoliate every LITTLE part of your body (my most favourite part). The sauna part consists of numerous rooms at different degrees and you put on the shorts and t shirts they give you for this. So it's mixed with men and women, and the open areas have TV's and sleeping areas. The massage chairs are wonderful for 1,000 won for 10 mins! This really is a piece of heaven and it only sets you back less than $10 and you can stay as long as you like, even overnight.

*image source: http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/10/johns_snack_and_deli.php

5. Kimbab Changuk - translation: Kimbab Heaven.
And heaven it really is! For 2,500 won you can get rice, tuna, mayo, ham, radish and some greens rolled with seaweed, cut up into little pieces that just melt in your mouth. Plus this place is 24 hours! The chamchi (tune) kimbab is my absolute fave, but this joint has so much more than just that - ramyeon, kimchi fried rice and soups of all kind! You never pay more than 5,000 won for a meal (about $5) so it's easy to just eat here every night, which most people have done at some point during their Korean life.

*image source: http://www.koamart.com/

6. Ding Dong bell - when you go to a Korean restaurant there is no awkwardness of having to flag the waiter down for everything. Instead there is a little bell on each table. When you need something (water, the bill, more kimchi) you press the bell. It 'ding dongs' and the waiter is at your table in usually under a minute. When you don't speak the language this bell is especially useful. Now THAT is a brilliant idea. Why didn't anyone else think of this?!

*image source: http://blog.daum.net/sequncetodispersion/12891319

7. Alcoholism is Accepted - it's a common sight to see a businessman in a suit passed out on the middle of the street or in your apartment hallway at any given time. Koreans have created a hangover cure in a bottle that will help to delay your hangover and is readily available at every convenience store. Dinner isn't complete without shots of soju to accompany it. Drinking is an accepted part of Korean culture; it's not looked down upon so drinking at the beach, in the streets, on the subway or even as you hike a mountain is considered protocol. In fact Koreans will offer you a drink if they see you hiking without one. There is no social stigma to being drunk in public and it's not a practice kept strictly for the weekends. The added bonus is that soju, beer and makoli (Korean rice wine) can be purchased at any convenience or grocery store for under $2 a bottle!

*image source: http://www.internationalrail.com/korea/ktx-trains-and-routes.aspx

8. Convenient, Affordable Travel - Korea is a fairly small country. It takes 5 hours by bus to get from Busan in the south east to Seoul in the north west, and the total cost of this bus ride is about $30! Korea is also home to the KTX (the Korean version of the Shinkansen), a bullet train which can take you the same route in 2.5 hours, for the price of $45. Things in general are cheap in Korea, but the price of travel trumps it all. The buses and trains are well maintained and super clean. Riding the KTX is like flying in an airplane - super smooth and very comfortable ride. The local transit (subway) is also calculated by the distant you travel, and the base rate is a mere 900 won (about 80 cents). Transit is also very well organized, especially in a city as huge as Seoul. From day one I was super impressed with how organized the transit systems are in Korea, and efficient. Nothing is late. And buses and trains always leave on time. It's actually more convenient NOT to have a car in this country!

*image source: www.roketship.com

9. The Waygook Pass - being a foreigner in Korea its often easy to forget the rules and blame it on being a 'waygook' (foreigner in Korean). Koreans will not approach you if you are breaking the rules (such as sneaking through the subway turnstiles, or jaywalking) due to saving face and the embarrassment of having to speak in English with a foreigner. Many times the Waygook Pass comes into use, especially when you just don't want to deal with the Korean way of doing things. Yes, that may sound awful but these are the perks of living abroad. Of course the Waygook Pass should also be used with discretion. Abuse of it has only brought upon a negative image of foreigners.

10. Cheap Taxi Drives - I have never taken so many taxi rides before in my life! The base fee starts at a mere 2,500 won (about $2) and getting half way across the city will set you back about 20 bucks. Yes, the subway is WAY cheaper (and I love that about Korea too) but the fact that you can ride in luxury at all times of the day is wonderful! And if you are lucky enough to have a nice cab driver, then they will smile as you sing your heart out along with the radio station of your choice. Most cabs in Korea have GPS which doubles as a TV, and speed limits are not made to abide by, so be warned that cab drivers enjoy racing down the street thinking they are impressing the waygook, while you are simply holding onto dear life. But in the end, the cheap fare can only make you smile.

...and finally, Koreans! Many people have a love - hate relationship with Koreans and I suppose that stems from your general experience in Korea. As for me, I love them. This is mostly because I find that Korean culture is similar to Tamil culture (or Asian culture as a whole) so the kind and caring attitude is severely different than in the west. I've had numerous moments where a random Korean has come to rescue me, whether it be from the rain, or a misunderstood situation. The adjumas love to touch you but it's a maternal instinct mixed with curiosity (and at times, a dash of judgement). Children are innocent and sweet, and overall the people are just nice and it's easier for me to understand it. I have never felt more safe than in Korea, and as anywhere it's not a place without its share of bad apples, but Koreans to me will always be one of the best people I have encountered in this world.

My life will never be the same as it was in Korea, that is what makes it so special. There is no place on Earth that will be the same and its these little tidbits that keeps me wanting to travel more and fuel me with the desire to experience the culture and have a different type of adventure each time.

There are so many things to be grateful for in my life; having the confidence and guts to move to this country was a quick decision that I will never regret but being welcomed by the people I have met here is something I had no control over.

My life in Seoul was a stepping stone into my life that was to come in Busan. My 2 years in Busan have been amazing beyond my wildest expectations! Who knew things can just keep getting better and better?!
I have been extremely lucky to have the opportunity to work at an international school with such an amazing group of people, and to be able to live in (what I consider) the best part of the city - Haeundae.

With all these lucky coincidences, the luckiest of them all have been my dear friends who have become more like sisters to me over these 22 months. Our time together stems beyond just Korea, as they weren't just co-workers but also wonderful travel mates and my support system of amazing friends in my time here. We have spent numerous months trying to 'figure out' Korea: understand why Koreans will never give us each a menu at a restaurant, why they only fill the glass half full of water, why E-Mart is hard to understand unless we say E-martuh.. and the list goes on!

The endless laughter after a stupid joke, the tearful moments when we were homesick, and the frustrated rage after a stressful day of teaching all brought us together. As our life changing journey ends my heart aches knowing we will never be residents of Well Beachee again, living dorm-style in our cool loft apartments and having the beach in our backyard. The irony of travelling however is that the journey never really ends; it lives on in memories that will be revived as small reminders will bring them back (and of course, Facebook!).

It's bitter sweet .. my relationship with Hanguk. I came here ready to embrace change. The challenge almost threw me off, making me want to give up after merely 6 months. But I held out, I trusted my gut. I could feel that there was something more and that I would regret quitting now.
Lesson learned - ALWAYS trust your gut! It can lead to some mesmerizing opportunities so never hold back.

Live your life, and have no regrets.

Being an Independent Traveller - it's really no big deal!

2011-05-17T18:47:00.002+09:00

The many faces I have encountered during my adventures always seem to have the same question for me - How do you travel on your own? Aren't you scared?

I always respond with the same answer - you never know what you are capable of until you do it.

Having a moment by myself in HK

This might come off as a cheesy post but the reality of travelling alone, especially as a woman is quite the daunting task. But you can not let fear control your life or your dreams.

For as long as I can remember, I had always wanted to travel but my dreams weren't as big as travelling the world. My first task was to make it Europe somehow. Although I had lived there (in Germany) as a child, I had yet to explore the continent that I had eagerly studied about in my undergrad. I was intrigued by its culture and history and knew that I wasn't privileged enough to get an all-inclusive post-grad backpacker trip. But I knew there had to be a way I could get there and luckily for me, I stumbled across the working holidaymaker visa that allowed me to work in the UK. By being able to live and work in a European country I got my first taste of independent travel. And how easy is it to work abroad when you have a citizenship from an English speaking country? Pretty darn easy! There are loads of resources out there that will guide you towards the information you need, the first step is wanting to do it bad enough that you invest your time in the research.

Other options to consider besides working abroad are to volunteer, or study abroad. Of course they all come with a price, so again it all depends on a person's desire to travel to their destination.

The Louvre and The Opera House in Paris ~ a dream come true!

The adrenaline of being abroad your first time around is amazing - I can still remember the high of living in another continent at 22 years old. To some it's not a big deal, but for a sheltered Tamil girl who could only dream of such a thing, it sure was! I suppose it was that rush that fuelled me to keep doing it, over and over again. And here I am, 6 years later still living abroad.

Although the adrenaline kept me going, it still didn't get rid of the underlying fear. When I arrived in London I had no idea where the small town of Swanage was. I had to get there on my own and I was never more grateful that I chose an English speaking country as my first destination. It would take me 2 train rides and a cab before I reached my summer home, but that wasn't without getting lost with my two oversized pieces of luggage. I think back to that naive moment in my life, where I felt that I did indeed need two suitcases filled with clothes and books for two months in the English countryside and feel a sense of pride at how far I've come. These days all I need is my 15 liter backpack for travels up to three months!

only one of these is mine!

There are so many things to be learned as an independent traveller besides just what to pack that's important. You quickly learn whom to trust, how to exit an uncomfortable situation, especially with someone whom you can't speak with in the same language, how to avoid tourist scams, and most of all, how to look like you really do know where you are going and are of course, NOT a lost tourist!

My biggest asset as a novice independent traveller was my Lonely Planet guides. Although it pointed me out as a tourist, it still allowed me the freedom to know where I was going with it's informative maps, and useful information on cities, towns, and basically everything! It's also helpful to plan out an itinerary so you don't feel compelled to hide in your hostel room all day. When you have a plan, it's easier to go out and follow it. Look out for free tours as well in major cities such as Amsterdam, Paris, and London. You want to be budget conscious but splurging here and there is also great after a wonderful day of sightseeing. And hostels are of course are your best resource and a place to meet other independent travellers. However don't feel compelled to stick around with people who may not seem to have the same idea of what to do and see as you.

Always remember that this is YOUR adventure, you call the shots.

the Yarra Rive in Australia

Since my first solo adventure to Europe, I have lived in Australia and Korea. In between I have explored many lands completely on my own and I have grown to appreciate my own company a lot more than I had thought. Of course, having a travel partner by your side is great, especially for safety. But I would never compromise my destination or sense of adventure simply because I am afraid to do it alone.

Once I became comfortable with staying along in a hostel and rather bored of it (because not every independent traveller is all that interesting) I began to use Couch Sufing as a mode of travelling as well. The site also serves as a great research tool and if your destination isn't exactly women-friendly, it's a wonderful place to meet other travellers who are heading the same way.

With a little experience and self-confidence, independent travelling can change your life. It helps you see another side of you that you probably didn't know existed.

as a solo traveller, you become quite good at self-portraits

If you are fuelled with the desire to travel, to explore at your own speed and limit, then just do it! Waiting for someone who shares your passion isn't going to happen. And waiting is only wasting more of your precious time. The world is here to explore and the time is now!

More online resources for research and meeting like-minded travellers:

www.couchsurfing.org

www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/index.jspa

www.travelfish.org

www.travbuddy.com

www.bootsnall.com

If you have specific questions regarding this topic, feel free to comment!

Island Paradise

2011-03-25T14:03:00.063+09:00

Everyone I spoke to when planning my trip to Bali recommended that I spend less time in Bali and more time in the Gili islands. Even though it was a mission and a half to reach the set of 3 islands, situated next to Lombok, I sure am glad I took their advice.

The Gilis are what Bali was in the pre-tourist boom era. The 3 islands are Gili Tarwangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. Gili T is the biggest of the 3 and the one located the furthest away from the mainland. It's a 3 hour speedboat journey from Bali and quite expensive at $150 for each way. But these islands are paradise!
Being the biggest of the three, Gili T is the most populated with beachside shops, homestays and bungalows. But being the biggest just means it takes about an hour or two to ride around the island in a bicycle, rathar than get lost in the uncharted paths of Gili Meno (the least populated and also known as honeymoon island). You can see the islands from one another because that is how closely they are located, but don't try to swim across. That's just stupid.

secluded beaches all around

We arrived knowing that these islands had no motored transportation. Bicycles and horse (pony) buggies are the only way to get around. I was intrigued by the thought, and add to that the Gili's fame of mushroom shakes! This was what my dreams are made of!
Life was definitely slow paced for the next 3 days.

Days consisted of laying on of the many secluded beaches where we would be the only ones there, with a hut selling food and cool Bintang beers. Snorkel gear is available for rental at the many roadside stands for $3 a day. After soaking up the immensely hot sun, the only other option is to jump into the waves and explore the amazing sea life. The visibility is better than I have ever come across scuba diving. I was impressed!

Gili T sunset

By night the party nights on the island are Mondays and Wednesdays. There are only a few bars on Gili T with one featuring a live reggae band. The better option for my friends and I were to just chill out by the beach at night, staring at the star filled sky and just soaking this paradise all in. It was extremely refreshing and surreal.

When you get bored of snorkelling offshore of the island, you can take a boat to nearby spots to snorkel as well. We spent half a day on a glass bottom boat and on this day of snorkelling I saw two sea turtles! We also had a stop off on Gili Air, the smallest of the 3 islands and definitely more secluded than Gili T. It's even further rugged and raw, the beauty of the landscape and its people is overwhelming to say the least. The community is so far removed from everything that I know, yet they are so content.

our bungalow

On the beach by night we hung out with some locals who mainly come to these islands from work, and they originate from Lombok. Indonesians are extremely kind, welcoming and friendly. And of course, laid back. We were often greeted with 'Welcome home!'.. what a wonderful attitude!

Although pretty secluded Gili T isn't very expensive for the average backpacker due to very basic accommodations. An open air bungalow is $30 a night (and can be easily shared by 2-3 people). Other than basic bungalows, the island is filled with 5 star hotel resorts that are starting to pop up quickly. One end remains budget with the other end catering to European families. It's sad that everything beautiful in the world is being ruined by money.
One thing I know for sure - the Gilis are changing and you gotta hit this place up sooner than later!

back on the boat to Bali

Island of the Gods

2011-03-22T16:34:00.084+09:00

The island of Bali has been a lifelong dream of mine, and probably for each and every single woman who saw the ever popular Eat, Pray, Love movie which was filmed here. Seeing Bali through film and pictures I've often wondered 'Is it really THAT pretty?', and the day finally came for me to see this slice of paradise with my own brown eyes.

The short answer - ABSOLUTELY! And you can see why.

The long answer ~
Bali is nicknamed the Island of the Gods due to its rich Hindu culture which promote yoga and tradition, its colorful landscape of glittering beaches and lush rice fields, and the smiling faces of its people who try to make the best of the over encompassing tourism industry the island has learned to thrive on. All these factors allow this little island to cater to the needs of different types of travellers by creating an idyllic setting for anyone who wants to get away from reality.

The island has many places of interest. I chose to say in Kuta beach, the overly touristic beach town catered to party goers, backpackers and families. I only had two nights in Bali so I felt Kuta would be the easiest choice to make the most out of little time.
Kuta reminded me of the beach towns in Australia - lined with Aussie surf shops (Roxy, Billabong, RipCurl) and banging clubs and drug vendors. The crowd is made up of mainly Aussie college tourists who are surfers by day and party animals by night. Almost like spring break in Florida.

Kuta Beach

We stayed in a new Best Western hotel a bit further away from the main Kuta strip, but the hotel had a shuttle bus that would drop us by the biggest shopping center in Bali - Discovery Mall. The trek was def worth it since this hotel was brand new and the staff were incredibly nice. Plus they had an awesome pool which came in handy once we laid eyes on Kuta beach which was nothing to write home about. It was filled with vendors and quite dirty. After a 5 minute stroll we were glad that we had made the decision to stay in the Gili islands.

Kristine and I did a day trip to Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali. This little town is filled with green rice paddy fields and historic Hindu temples. Most people opt to stay in Ubud since it provides more of a cultural experience with its nightly Balinese dance performances and the vast option of ethnic foods. Kuta on the other hand is filled with Western food, we were unable to find any authenticity in that little nook!

Since we only had a week in Bali, a day trip to Ubud had to suffice and luckily for us we found an amazing Indonesian couple who were our driver and tour guide. They made us feel like family and took us to their favorite temple which had fresh water springs and wasn't as populated. The drive was scenic and the day ended with an hour of haggling at the Ubud market. I'm not sure if 3 years in Asia has improved my haggling skills or Indonesians are just darn nice, but I actually enjoyed the haggling in this country. And the Balinese are a lot more laid back and less greedy.

2 days in Bali is simply scratching the surface. It was tough partying it up by night and trying to be awake early enough for our day excursions. I thought this was a vacation?! But the sacrifice was well worth it, especially for the house anthems, live reggae bands and cheap sheesha. Beware of drugs though, they fill the streets outside the nightclub strip. Yet when you arrive at the airport, the big sign at immigration clearly states 'Trafficking drugs means death penalty'. What an oxymoron!

24 Hours in Hong Kong

2011-03-20T13:35:00.069+09:00

Getting a flight out of Busan is tough. It usually involves a transfer in Seoul which doesn't make much sense seeing that Busan is already further south, in the direction of where I'm always headed.
Getting a flight to Indonesia, specifically Bali is even tougher since prices seem to always be starting at $1000. So I jumped at the chance of flying to Bali via Hong Kong since it was below that minimum. The only downside was that we'd have to spend a night in Hong Kong because our connecting flight was the next morning. This meant we had 24 hours in this city-country and I wasn't really amused by this chance seeing that I had already been here a year ago and felt I had covered all the touristic grounds.

But we did get a free hotel room for the night, so seize this opportunity we did!

Hong Kong was drizzling the whole time we were there. Once we checked into the airport hotel we were told we got lunch and dinner vouchers, and that too for the Italian buffet restaurant. Our eyes literally popped out of our heads. Vacation to me and Kristine is all about eating and relaxing so what a wonderful start to our holiday. And this was like living up the all inclusive lifestyle. What a great start to our spring break!

Since we had both been in Hong Kong before it wasn't tough figuring out how to get around. Hong Kong's public transit system is one of the best in the world. The direct train from the airport to Hong Kong island (the mainland) is about 24 minutes. All we wanted to do this time around in Hong Kong was to shop. We are deprived of big brand names (and not to mention regular people sizes of clothing and shoes) in Korea. We spent our Saturday roaming the streets and charging up our cards like it was Christmas.
What I love about the shopping scene in Hong Kong is the international variety of shops - they've got big chains from Australia all the way to the US.
After a few hours of shopping we definitely did drop. It was wonderful to have a 4 star hotel room to go back to (and that too for FREE!). If it had been sunnier then it would have been worth it to explore the south end of Hong Kong island, where all the beaches are. But alas, this was just a stop over and the warm beds and cable TV were quite enticing. After a delicious dinner buffet of shrimp salad, chicken curry, potatoes, smoked salmon, and sushi, I was content.
Who I really have to thank for all this is Cathay Pacific, no wonder they are one of the best airlines in the world!

The one thing I noticed this time around in Hong Kong was the increase of different cultures in the city. There were more Indians this time around and it didn't feel like there were only Chinese residents filling the streets. Of course the British make up majority of the expat population here but it wasn't as noticeable. Also, there were a lot of hybrid couples (Chinese and Caucasian) who make the cutest little babies that filled up the shopping malls in their strollers. Everyone speaks English but with a Chinese accent, and the accent is so strong that they might as well be speaking another language.

What surprised me on this stopover what the sheer size of the Hong Kong airport - it was a maze of high end shopping, restaurants, Starbucks, and flight gates. It is one of the biggest airports in the world, and it sure does show! Its easy to get lost in the duty-free specials and the latte stands. Its also easy to forget you are at an airport when you are shopping at Zara and The Sony Store. If you just go to the airport alone in Hong Kong, you get a real feel for what the culture is all about ~ a variety of international foods and shopping!

New Years in Saigon

2011-01-01T19:01:00.082+09:00

Is it Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon?

Saigon at night

It's a question that all foreigners ponder, especially when talking to the Vietnamese about it.
Fact: Ho Chi Minh City refers to the whole of the city. Saigon refers to the downtown area, mainly district 1 and 5.
But in Vietnam, you will hear it called as Saigon more than anything else.
My first impression was this city is on drugs! It's an adrenaline rush just crossing the street. If Hanoi was bad, this is 10 times worse! And it makes sense when you consider the population of 11 million people in a city without public transportation. About half the population is on scooters; families of 4, teenagers, career women in heels, farmers with their crops in tow, etc. Rush hour is ALL the time!
People are also everywhere all the time. Peace and quiet does not exist. If I lived here, I would never leave my house due to pure anxiety.

Merry Christmas!

We felt lucky that we had chosen to end our trip by staying at a 5 star hotel located in district 5, and not in the tourist area of district 1 with all the backpackers and touts.

We got our own map and set out to seek the sight of Saigon. After all, the main sights were grouped together and the streets seemed easy enough. I guess I will never learn that no streets in the world are quite as parallel as Toronto, and finding street signs here became another mission. Thank goodness I had a team to work with.

As all big cities, a river runs thru Saigon but it's not a pretty picture. There are several ports with tankers and the river is polluted beyond belief. It's quite sad to see how poorly this city is being taken care of, considering its history. The stink of the river is revolting and makes me wonder how tourists would pay extra for a river view in the riverfront hotels.

Opera House

An opera house is located a few blocks from the river. It's a big icon on the map but in reality, it's disappointing and not even picture worthy. You'd think a French colonized country would house a wonderful opera building!
Then again, the French influence is fading. Most people don't even speak English, even at our hotel. The locals here seemed extremely unfriendly and mean. I was glad that this was the end of my time here. The chaos, the noise, the confusing streets and throw in rude people - you defiantly feel unhappy.

We took a day trip out to the Cu Chi tunnels which is about 2 hours out of Saigon, but considered to be a suburb. During the war this area was the countryside, and the townspeople created an underground tunnel network to house the Viet Congs.
It's impressive to see the system they had developed and the anti-American propaganda is appalling!
We spent more time sitting in the van getting to and from our destination however then at the actual place. This is due to the heavy traffic of a non-existent transportation system.
But it seemed well worth it since I got to fire an AK-47 - my first ever experience shooting any sort of gun.

getting into the tunnel

inside the tunnels

I ended 2010 in Saigon, among Vietnamese locals and tourists, cheers-ing Saigon beer with fellow travellers on the humid and crowded streets. It was an incredible feeling.
Of course among all the chaos my friends and I split up but the best but was when I finally made it back to our hotel floor to find our hotel pool party ending, and my friends in the pool, fully clothed.
Of course, I had to jump in.

Happy 2011!

(at district 1)

It has been a wonderful 3 weeks of travelling through Vietnam. This country is beautiful in regards to landscape, rich in history, and its people have gone through much hardship to bring their land this far. However of all the places I have visited in Asia the people here have been the most devious, rude and the most difficult to understand. Perhaps there is an underlying hatred towards Westerners and I found this type of behaviour more so among middle aged people than anyone else. Vietnam is a young country, just over 30 years old and trying to still cope with all its loss and adapt to its emerging economy. Hopefully with time it will be better.

new years eve pool party

Sand Dunes in a Beach Town

2010-12-28T19:00:00.050+09:00

From a commercial beach town, we headed to a more off the beaten track (or so we were told) beach town on the east coast, in a little nook called Mui Ne. After another sleeper bus journey we were dropped off in the middle of this strip of sandy roads, with accommodations and restaurants down a 16 kilometre stretch with the beach on the east side.

Reservations were difficult to come by being the Christmas holidays and Mui Ne is popular more among the local tourists and the well knowledgable backpacker crowd. The main attraction here isn't just the beach but the sand dunes which are a couple kilometres away and a truly stunning sight.

At first glance Mui Ne reminded me of the islands in Thailand - small, quiet and attractive to the easy going lifestyle seeker. The strip hosts resort style hotels as well as beaten up backpackers. We ended up at an overpriced 'resort' where breakfast consisted of a plain omelette. This area of the beach is popular for windsurfing due to the extremely windy conditions Mui Ne endures on a daily basis. The beach is beautiful but more on the dirty side since Mui Ne is an emerging tourist town building up around a fishing village.

Scooters are a must here since nothing is walkable. The traffic is low so scooting around is a pleasant experience, even at night. Even though with Christmas being the busy season, I still found it pretty quiet.
Mui Ne is a great attraction for families as well since the resorts are child friendly and its safe all around.

The sand dunes felt like being in the Sahara desert. They are located next to a lake so at first glance the view is breathtaking - I have never seen anything like it! You can also go sand sledding, which is definitely harder than it looks.
A few hour trip with a driver in his jeep is fairly cheap - about $5. After an hour or so at the white sand dunes you are taken next to the red sand dunes which aren't quite as stunning but offers a great view of the ocean and nearby villages when at the top.

The fairy stream is just that - a stream and you are guided by local boys who have quickly learned the art of conning at such a young age. It's hard to say no and they have learned all the right English words to make your heart melt.
The walk you through the stream, offer you a chance to ride an ostrich (random!) and take you up a sandy hill for a view of the stream. It's really just a little hike which has become a tourist attraction mainly due to the lack of attractions in Mui Ne.

The beach life here is a bit boring since it's too quiet. This is the main reason Mui Ne attracts the mature crowd, with families and couples as well. It was a relaxing few days with great meals, especially at a little French restaurant called 'La Palliote' where we had the best meal in Vietnam. That alone was worth the trip to Mui Ne.

Christmas on the Beach

2010-12-25T19:00:00.049+09:00

It's my first Christmas in tropical climate and I absolutely love it! A part of me does miss the snow, but definitely not the cold that comes along with it.

Nha Trang is the Miami strip of Vietnam. It is the most popular beach destination in the country and attract local and international visitors alike. The beach stretches for a few kilometres and is parallel to the main street of the town. It gives this whole place a real beach 'town' feel rathar than an tropical resort feel. Regardless, the sun is shining, the waves are crashing and the sand is warm.

The beach here is also filled with hagglers and the best spot to hang out at is Lousiana Bar, where you can rent a beach chair for the day and get everything served to you, including a refreshing mango shake and a $5 massage. Happy hour as always is alive and thriving here, on and off the beach.
There isn't much else to do anyways, even at night. It's early to bed and early to rise again due to all the traffic that begins in the wee hours of the morning, and not to mention the construction taking place in the building next door to our budget hotel.
We did score a good deal at a hotel room over looking the beach for $15 a night, but alas everything comes with its little bits of flaws in Vietnam. I am slowly learning this along with the understanding of why so many backpackers I've come across have shared their deep hatred for this country.

Even with it being Christmas season the town still seems pretty dead in comparison to other beach towns I've visited. There are plenty of bars yet they are basically dead all the time even with their cheap happy hour prices. Luckily we had planned to meet 3 more of our friends here making us a travelling group of 5, so it has been a continuous party.

Nha Trang is also a scuba junkie's paradise due to the cheapest prices in the country for diving. I spent Christmas eve indulging in it myself, even though the water visibility was pretty low. But for how cheap it is ($40 for 2 fun dives!) it was hard to turn away. Of course all the scuba boats head to all the same places so they all more or less also offer the same prices with a flood of divers.

It was my first dive since Thailand and my first dive was disappointing. I only became comfortable on my second dive which I almost chickened out of of, but as always, once in the water I was so grateful for sucking it up. On my second dive the visibility was better and I got to see loads of colorful fish and anemones.

Nha Trang has a small night market selling the exact same touristy bags, dresses and knick knacks I've seen everywhere. However the prices are much higher here.
It's nice that the entire town is walkable and seafood is cheap, especially on the beach where they will cook it for you on the spot as well. Western food is readily available at all the restaurants.

The Sailing Club is the fanciest restaurant in town and we had Christmas dinner here which was incredible. It was followed by an awesome beach party that featured a live Reggaeton band. We finally saw people come out at night! It felt like the full moon party in Thailand, to be dancing under the stars with glow sticks and so many other foreigners.

Vietnam's Best Kept not so little Secret!

2010-12-20T22:25:00.068+09:00

Hoi An was only 4 hours south of Hue, so we thankfully dodged the sleeper bus for this one. After hours of winding through mountains and rice paddies we finally arrived in a little town, with sun beaming upon us. We were only a couple kilometres further south and already the change in climate was noticeable.

We chose to stay outside the main town area and it was only a 10 minute walk into the town. The overall town is about 30 minutes walking distance on one end, and even less on the other side of the river where most of the locals live and is completely underdeveloped.

Hoi An is a town that is listed on the UNESCO site list due to its buildings which have survived since the times of traders and merchants when it was a port town. Many of the tailors of those heydays have been left behind creating a huge tailoring industry where loads of tourists mainly come to this town to get personalized clothing made for cheap. Yet this town has so much more than just that.

Being a pedestrian town gives it a very easy going feel. The locals are extremely friendly and not trying to take your money (at least outside the main town area). We stayed here for 5 days and it felt like we almost lived here due to all the people we got to know in that tine.

If walking isn't your thing it's cheap to rent a bicycle and bike around as well, since there is virtually no traffic on the small streets. The buildings house cafes, restaurants and shops - there is never a dull moment! The streets which are lined with yellow washed buildings create so much character and an old world feel. It felt like I stepped out of the current time period. Life just went by at such a slow pace, and for once I wasn't on the beach to be feeling this way!

Most of the shops are also homes of the owners, so it was interesting to step into a store to browse, yet see the entire family huddled over a TV in the back room, eating their pho for breakfast.
The only negative component of so many shops is being attacked by vendors almost every minute. The most popular thing you hear is 'You wanna buy?'
After 2 days it becomes unbearable and you learn to heed past most of them. But the Asian guilt trip (where vendors tell you their life story - children and family to take care of) did work a few times. If they weren't ALL selling the same souvenirs they might have better luck with the tourists.

lantern street

Aside from the souvenirs Hoi An is a shoppers mecca due to the personalized clothes, jackets, and shoes that can be made at an affordable price. We were told that it's cheap, but unless you are a serious bargainer (who actually enjoys it) then you end up paying what you would pay at home BUT for clothes that are custom made to fit. I had to buy an extra suitcase to bring my stuff back! It's quite easy to lose track of all that you are ordering and each day you see a new design and convince yourself it's not that expensive.
If you are a shopaholic, steer clear of Hoi An or only spend a few days where you can limit your spending.

being harassed at Cui Dai beach

In the middle of the town runs the river with beautifully lit lights and cafes lines along the river. It's absolutely beautiful to hang out at night and luckily for us we arrived in time for the full moon festival, when they send lanterns into the river. The river fills up with paper lanterns and the banks are filled with lantern vendors and tourists.

art galleries fill the streets

Cui Dai beach is a 20 minute bike ride east and is a small quaint beach with small resorts and loads of old women, once again selling the same souvenirs. It's a cute town to bike around and a pleasant ride through the countryside, along side tractors and scooters.

Since we stayed outside the main town we stumbled across the Hoi An orphanage, home to 73 orphans. We walked in curious to see what an orphanage in Vietnam would be like. We left quite saddened due to all the disabled children we saw who just wanted to be held. Unfortunately no one spoke English and we were left alone with the children. I did find out later that most of the children in Vietnam are abandoned due to disabilities; some are left at the orphanage while some are found around the town stranded. This orphanage is lucky to be in a tourist town since we saw a few tourists come into make donations. There are heaps more around the country that wouldn't get as much financial support since these are government run orphanages, which is why the staff seemed very non-chalant and uninterested.

with a couple of children at the orphanage

Hoi An seems to thrive through tourism; it must be strange living here as a local. The town is safe even at night and is very peaceful. This was my favourite place in all of Vietnam. Even if it was touristy, there are still ways to escape it and mingle with the local. There isn't much to see exactly- it's a place to hang out, shop and browse. The town feels historic and is home to the nicest people I have met in this country.

The Cham World Capital

2010-12-19T22:26:00.053+09:00

My Son (mee-son) was the religious capital of the Cham civilization. It was built from 4th century to 13th century making it over 1500 years old, and older than Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
The day trip to My Son is a great way to get a glimpse into this preserved area near Hoi An.

The Chams ruled the middle area of Vietnam. They were Hindu Indonesians from Java, and are a minority now in Vietnam, working mainly as fishermen. Due to their Hindu culture these structures served as temples, and the site featured numerous Lingas. The temples are devoted to Lord Shiva (God of Destruction) with a few statues of Lord Ganesh (Elephant God).

our animated tour guide

These ruins were first discovered by the French in 1895. It consists of over 50 Hindu structures nestled in between jungle and mountains. The heads of the Shiva statues were cut off to be preserved at The Louvre in Paris. Even after numerous years of research anthropologists are still unable to distinguish the exact process in how these structures were created since the brick isn't put together in the usual format.

Unfortunately the site was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War in 1969 by the US, who believed it was being used as a Vietcong base. Since the ruins are located amongst a jungle, the nearby mountains are still laced with land mines that are still being located.

My Son is absolutely stunning and the inside of a few temples store statues and presented as a museum. It's a live site of research and quite surprising that it's not as well known for most tourists.

sanscrit tablet

Following a few hours of exploration at My Son our day tour took us to the river for a boat cruise, followed by a stop at a traditional village where local craftsmen lived. We were able to see Vietnamese families who built boats and created most of the handicrafts that are distributed to the tourist shops.

It was a unique experience to see first hand how most of the handicrafts are created and to meet local artists. Although I despise tours this one was very informative due to our animated tour guide without whom the ruins would have been meaningless. At times a day trip can really go a long way, especially when indulging in culture is only $5 (including a homemade lunch).

The Imperial City

2010-12-16T17:43:00.004+09:00

Hue (ha-way) was the Imperial Capital of Vietnam. It is a 14 hour ride from Hanoi.
We got the open tour bus ticket which is popular not with backpackers, but almost all tourists since the monopolized airline industry doesn't leave tourists with much other choice.
For $35 dollars its the cheapest and easiest way to get to all of Vietnam's major attractions.

pho bo for breakfast

So it sounds like too good of a deal right? Well, it is!
The sleeper bus is definitely an experience, one I wouldn't do again ever! There are really no other bus options either since all the buses travel at night. How bad can it be to sleep on a 14 hour bus ride? Extremely when you can't sit up for the entire duration, the entire bus reeks with flies everywhere, dirty blankets, the air con hitting you directly, and the bus stops only once for a bathroom break. The buses are equipped with toilets, but this is Asia which means its broken or dirty. In my case it meant the door wouldn't lock so on this bumpy ride you have to try to manoeuvre yourself so you are holding the door with one hand and not trying to touch anything in this germ infested hole that they call a bathroom. Tricky indeed!
On top of that I ended up in the bottom bunk of the bus, where I was up against the window with 4 other strangers to the right of me. Next to me was an older Dutch man and his wife. Of course I had to curl into a ball and just hope he wouldn't hit me while he turned in his sleep. Needless to say, I didn't sleep a wink and the bumpy, unpaved roads didn't help either.

citadel

Sounds like a nightmare? Thinking about it still makes me wanna still pull my hair out. It's not an experience I'm grateful for. The sleeper trains in India were much more comfortable!
So yes, getting there was half the battle and knowing that this was just the first of these sleeper bus journeys really did sour us out. We're going to have to endure about 3 more!

pagoda

Once we arrived in Hue the sleeper bus dropped us off at a hostel that they are affiliated with. It was cold and rainy and all I was craving was sleep in a warm place. The dingy hostel for $2 a night would have to do.
Hue is a walkable city but it poured the entire day, so we had no choice but to hire a driver to take us to all the main sites since we couldn't waste a day doing nothing.
It felt like being on a personal tour with my guide book leading the way.

The Imperial Citadel is at the center of the city, preserved well with what's left of the war and stating the Chinese influence of this city loud and clear. It is very similar to the Forbidden City of Beijing since this is where the Royal family lived in its heydays. It's pretty big and takes a few hours to really explore. The Chinese architecture has become somewhat of bore after so many years of Asian influence. I'm afraid I've lost the appreciation.

The Perfume River runs through the city, to the north of it is the Citadel and to the south is the newer city that has developed over the past few years. Thien Mu Pagoda overlooks the Perfume River and is quite a peaceful city, a little removed from the main area of the city.

Tu Duc's tomb

There are numerous tombs of emperors located just a drive away from the main city. We were able to visit just one due to the vast area of each tomb and the unfortunate weather. We went to Tu Duc's tomb which was built while the emperor was alive. It actually served as his second home, and even had a home for his concubines. It's set around a beautiful lake with wooden pavillions, tombs and temples dedicated to wives and favoured courtesans (Tu Duc had 104 of them!). The entire area was green and mossy, with moss growing between all the old stones which created the paths. It was amorous.

tomb guards

After catching the main sites we were toursit-ed out. Being warm and dry suddenly became our priority.
24 hours in Hue felt like enough. I'm disappointed that I didn't have a chance to really experience this small city but when it rains, it really does pour here. Our feet weren't just drenched but also covered in dirt. Stepping out was a mission, plus the streets are not properly lit so it also felt unsafe.

The city is much smaller than Hanoi and the people were much friendlier. We came across locals who were willing to stop and have conversations with us, to help us and were happy to meet foreigners.
Things are also much cheaper than Hanoi, even if Hue is a tourist spot.

Bottom line:
rain can really ruin a vacation.

The Most Photographed Bay in Vietnam

2010-12-15T17:36:00.062+09:00

A 4 hour drive east of Hanoi leads you to the bay where you can board a junk boat for a scenic overnight cruise through Halong Bay.

The cruise is the best way to experience the 2000 islands of limestone kirsts which form this unique bay. Finding a cruise is easy since all the companies offer the same deal - food is all inclusive, with a karaoke party at night and a free foot massage (although after 5 mins the masseuse who was also just a man who was working on the boat, was no where to be found). We were given a cabin with our own bathroom and it was surprisingly not too shabby.

our junk boat

Our cruise was made up of mostly backpackers so life on the boat was enjoyable, despite the cloudy skies and chilly evening breeze. The boat also has a rooftop deck and you can also go swimming once the boat stops for the night, but December is also winter in Northern Vietnam so the weather wasn't very appealing to be outdoors.

The bay is filled with hundreds of junk boats, which means you are never alone and the scenery is a bit spoiled. There are also a few activities the cruise offered. First stop was the Surprise Cave, a gigantic cave located on one of the islands. Next we were able to go kayaking. They give you a kayak and you just go. There are no lessons or instructions. You just have to figure it out and hope you can make it back in 20 minutes.

Surprise Cave

After a night on the boat we got dropped off at Cat Ba island, the biggest island in Halong Bay. We were given the option of trekking or biking, I opted for the latter. We biked for 5 kms to reach Hospital cave which was used during the war. Inside the cave there are numerous rooms that were used to treat injured soldiers. It even featured an open theatre which could accommodate 300 people, a swimming
pool, and a ping pong room.

our bungalow on Monkey Island

Finally we got dropped off at the pier to take another boat to our next destination - Monkey Island. This island had one resort on a private beach, with bungalows and huts. Unfortunately it was windy and cold so we other than meal times, most of us tried to stay warm in our bungalows.
The island is also home to numerous long tail macaques, hence its name, which can be seen all over the island.

Our journey back to Hanoi felt like the longest of life - we had to take a boat back to Cat Ba island, followed by a bus to the main pier, another boat back to the main pier on the mainland, and a 4 hour drive back to Hanoi.

the beach on Monkey Island

It was a relaxing 2 days where meals were served and plans were made for us. Kristine and I also met loads of other backpackers who we had a great time getting to know. Almost everyone does the same route (north to south, or south to north) so it's wonderful to hear travelling stories and get first hand information on the places we are going to.

P.S.. Hanoi is apparently very dangerous especially night due to bag snatchers on scooters. We were completely unaware of this and it really caught us by surprise to meet someone who had been a victim of it. Bag snatchers either cut a hole in your bag or cut it right off your shoulders. It made me be cautious and aware, along with a dash of paranoia.

vendors boats, floating around the bay

From North to South : The Amazing Vietnamese Race

2010-12-13T17:33:00.082+09:00

Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam.
The city is centered around Hoan Kiem lake and the backpacker district is in the Old Quarter, right next to the lake. You don't need to venture much far out from here to do and see much in this city.
It is a 1000 year old capital although in the past this city was known as Thang Long.

Hoan Kiem Lake and the roundabout

As soon as we arrived the overwhelming noise of honking and traffic surrounded us. Kristine and I jumped on a scooter, each with a driver, our backpacks in tow and shot down the first attempt we encountered in being ripped off. This was south east Asia; we would need to practice being stern.

We wanted to see as much as we could and Hanoi is a city that you just sorta hang out in. After a failed walking tour (Frommer's isn't as thorough as LP) we decided to just walk around, jump on a cyclo and wander. The Old Quarter is filled with shops and the roads are quite easy to get lost in. We did a few times. Crossing the street is always a game; there are barely any crosswalks or signals so you just walk across the road hoping a scooter isn't gonna run you over. The streets never seem to quiet down either, even at 7am!

Kristine and I on a cyclo

The main attraction in Hanoi is the mausoleum of the patriotic hero, Ho Chi Minh. He was the man in charge of leading the revolution which led to an independent and communist Vietnam. He is known as 'Uncle Ho' by the Vietnamese with much affection.
Unfortunately the mausoleum is open only until 11am and closed on Sundays. The mausoleum is located in a gigantic square much similar to Tinammen Square in Beijing, China. I suppose it does all make sense when the city is plastered as well with communistic propaganda.

The Communist museum is right next door and the workers take quite a long lunch break (about 2-3 hours). Since these 2 attractions are a taxi ride from the Old Quarter we stuck around to visit the museum which was very artistic and informative. It seemed somewhat of a shrine to Uncle Ho as well where they kept pieces of his clothing, speeches and exhibitions showcasing his struggle for Vietnam's independence.

Communist Museum

The Water Puppet theater was a cultural treat for only $3. It featured live traditional music and puppets that were dancing on water. They acted out stories of farm life, animalistic traditions and the overall rural lifestyle in Vietnam. It was interesting however the music isn't exactly easy on the ears at all times.

water puppets

Being a capital city Hanoi is super busy. Most travellers start their trip in Hanoi and work their way south to Ho Chi Minh City or vice versa. This is our first stop on a 3 week backpacking race to the south. So far it has been easier than anticipated since most people understand English.

This city is filled with backpackers who are doing the South East Asia loop (Thailand - Cambodia - Laos - Vietnam) and so its easy to survive here on a low amount of cash. But that doesn't mean that backpackers have to look like hobos, does it?
It seems to be a trend however - to live a hippie lifestyle and refuse the need for a shower. It definitely isn't very appealing if I can smell your b.o from miles away! It makes feel realize that the dirt cheap style of backpacking really isn't for me, I am officially a flashpacker and if you've got a job, why not!?

the mausoleum

Diving with Sharks

2010-11-24T18:22:00.040+09:00

You don't even have to know how to swim to dive in an aquarium filled with sharks, stings rays and loads of other schools of fish. Scuba in Korea is run by a Canadian divemaster who guides those interested in a shark dive into the depths of the Busan aquarium to experience life among them for 30 minutes.

The entire ordeal takes a day commitment; you need to sign your life away first, followed by an orientation of the aquarium animals that we will be seeing in the tank, and finally a training session on basic scuba skills in the tank.Once in the gigantic tank, 30 minutes feels like a few hours. The downside of hopping along in a tank is that you can't swim (since it will attract the sharks) and you are limited to how much you can see and do. The tank is only about 3 meters deep so it's perfect for beginners and first timers. It gives you an excellent taste of what scuba diving is all about, and makes you feel like a hero for being surrounded by a bunch of lazy sharks.

It is a surreal feeling to see the sharks and sting ray sail right by, without a care in the world since they seem accustomed to human visitors. But with the lack of space, you are more of a spectacle for the Korean visitors admiring you from the outside as well.

Overall for 70,000 won its not a bad deal to claim you 'dove with sharks'. When you are shark diving in the ocean you are dropped into the waters in a cage, so this is quite the experience to be in open waters with them.

Michael was a wonderful divemaster who made us all feel very comfortable and our dive fun and memorable. For those interested you can find more info at Scuba in Korea.

The dives are only on the weekends and they get filled up fast. And it's important to be hydrated and well rested for an enjoyable diving experience.

You Let Strangers into Your House? It's called Couchsurfing!

2010-11-09T17:04:00.003+09:00

The one question that I get from most people I encounter about my travels is 'How do you do it? how can you afford to travel so much?'
Rest assure, I'm not a millionaire!
After all, I grew up in Toronto, one of the most expensive cities (in my opinion) and went to university which means debt is following me around the world (thanks OSAP!).

My first year in Korea I discovered something that changed my life.
It's called Couchsurfing (www.couchsurfing.org), a very simple concept which I can't say I have never thought about, but 80% of the world believes it would never work.
The 20% who do believe in the kindness of strangers have opened up their doors to fellow travellers in their cities, giving them a place to stay, either on the couch, floor or if you are really lucky, and extra room! Oh ya, it's all for free! .. um, sort of.

My CS Profile

I have mentioned couchsurfing in a number of my blog entries because it is a huge part of my travelling experience. Through CS, you are immediately connected to others in the city you are visiting. They might be locals or expats willing to host you, or travellers like yourself who are just passing through and want to share their experiences.

surfing my first ever couch in Korea in 2008

There are numerous travel sites out there for people who just want to meet others that are also travelling at the same time in the same place. But what makes CS different is the concept of having a globally connected network, where you don't just leave after an encounter. It's basically the travellers equivalent to Facebook, where each person has a profile and instead of a 'wall' you can leave references, which others can read to get a feeling of this person.

new years eve 2007 in Beijing, China

It's a wonderful system in a world where kindness is underrated. It has made me fall in love with people and the world as a whole. I look forward to meeting CSers because they inspire me, to travel more, and in different ways. You hear about the people trying to cycle their way from Europe to Asia, or those who lead a nomadic way of life for years around the world. Well, through CS I have been able to meet people like this who give you more of a will to keep on with your adventures.
I have surfed in over 10 countries - Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, Singapore, India, Canada, Thailand, Cambodia and Taiwan. But I have met up with surfers in almost every country I have visited in the past 2 and a half years.

The locals are always willing to tell you the places to eat, and even take you there. They will know the best shops in town to rent a motorbike at a cheap rate, or even how to get to your next destination on a bus that Lonely Planet hasn't discovered yet.

Free Hugs in Busan 2010

The expats are able to explain cultural taboos, know the locations of the the best watering holes in town, and even hook you up with a CS host at your next destination.

The perks of CS aren't from just being a surfer.
Since March of 2008 I have hosted over 40 CSers in Seoul and Busan. These guests came from all over the world - USA, China, UK, France, Switzerland, Spain, Germany, Estonia, New Zealand, South Africa, Wales, Austria, India, Italy and Canada.

Full Moon party in Ko Phangan, Thailand

Being a host you are able to show your guest your perspective of your city. For me, it's just like hosting a friend from home. You can also connect with other CS hosts in your city by hosting events, which those travelling through are also able to attend.
The connection of all these people is usually instant, since as a couch surfer the passion for travel is an instant topic of conversation.

Of course the good never comes without the bad, and there are times when you come across the random encounter of a greedy guest who is simply trying to take advantage of this system.
With CS reaching over one million members this year, more and more people are joining this system of travelling for the wrong reasons, such as to save money and travel longer. Unfortunately I have had encounters with people like this personally (luckily I haven't hosted any) but if you are an experienced CSer, you will be able to sniff people like this from a mile away.

Being a traveller though you know that sometimes you just gotta shake off the bad, and keep on going. CS is a wonderful way of life, you can't let a few bad experiences taint an awesome lifestyle. So many of my memorable moments from my travels have been due to CSers that I have met and hung out with - such as new years eve in Beijing wigging out, the full moon party in Thailand, and camping at mudfest to name a few. In the end, I have created wonderful friendships from people around the world! Now that is priceless!

And the sort of free part..
well, nothing in life is ever free. It's all about karma. If you are a good host who is willing to invest your time and energy to make someone's trip memorable, chances are you are going to get the same treatment where you go.

As for me, I've yet to experience anything negative through CS and I'm hoping this is because I'm an awesome host!

From the North East to the South West

2010-09-25T04:42:00.069+09:00

Getting to Tainan was more of a mission than Chad and I had anticipated. Due to the recent typhoon that hit the east coast of Taiwan, the trains heading south were stopped on the route we needed to head towards. Instead we had to make a detour and head back to Taipei, and take a high speed train to Tainan from there.

the water pump station - how Tainan residents get filtered water

Eventually we made it to meet Chad's friend Sonja who graciously hosted us in her amazing apartment. We got to know the expat crowd of Tainan and it doesn't seem to be very different from the expat scene in Korea. The one huge difference that I did notice was that all the foreigners in Taiwan were there to study Mandarin and were able to converse quite comfortably in it. It's pretty amazing considering how much more complicated Mandarin is in comparison to Korean, and I barely come across foreigners in Korea who are even somewhat fluent.
Of course, majority of the expats in Taiwan are also working as teachers but the contracts and hours are more flexible and as a result, the lifestyle is more laid back.

The best dumplings I have ever had were also in Tainan. They are soup dumplings (a Shanghai specialty) and it's absolutely delicious because you get a little bit of broth with your dumpling.

My favourite thing about Taiwan is the tea shop culture. Every few feet there is a tea shop - my fave is of course bubble tea (flavoured milk tea with tapioca) and it's dirt cheap! My second favourite thing about Taiwan are the people I met in Tainan. We spend an evening wandering the streets and bar hopping with people I had just met, but it felt like we had all been friends for a long time. It's not everyday you can go to a foreign country and just meet a great group of people to hang out with! Sometimes, you just get lucky.

my name in Mandarin

We did spend a day exploring the old city of Tainan. This included roaming some markets, buying some souvenirs and checking out a super cool treehouse - an actual tree that grew out of a house and became part of the structure. This building was used by the Japanese and now is a tourist destination. It reminded me of Ta Prohm temple in Cambodia, where the roots are embedded with the walls. It was quite random.

shopping for goodies

Our final destination was Taipei. I wasn't too keen on spending time in Taipei since I had explored it already but since I was flying from there I had no choice. We couchsurfed with some awesome people in Taipei who really did end up making the time very memorable. Again, our hosts all spoke Mandarin who allowed us to try out more local cuisine and bargain at the markets. I also spent my last night in Taiwan in Xiamen, which is the 'village' of Taipei. It is an area in the middle of the city filled with open air bars, where it's quite fun to just relax and observe the traffic. By day, Xiamen is a shopper's haven with loads of shops selling everything you can think of.
The Modern Toilet is a very popular restaurant in Taipei, and we accidentally came across it while wandering in Xiamen and of course we had to go in! The restaurant is famous because it uses toilets for actual seats and bathtubs and sinks as tables. The dishes are served in little urinal plates! Yes, it's pretty tacky but where else can you say you drank out of a urinal?!

Taipei is more of a transportation hub and my least favourite place in Taiwan. This mostly because there isn't much history or authenticity to it. It's just another big Asian city. What made me fall in love with Taiwan are the people - locals and expats. The locals want to help and go out of their way to do it. Their kindness is very touching and welcoming.

llha Formosa

2010-09-23T04:24:00.059+09:00

Taiwan is the first country I have gone back to in Asia. This wasn't planned either, but merely a happy coincidence that Korean thanksgiving gave me 5 days off and I began having the urge for a change.
Luckily for me, my friend Chad was in the same boat and 2 weeks later, here we are in Taiwan.

My first time in Taiwan was only for a weekend and I spent the entire time exploring Taipei, but this little island has so much to offer than just the city. In fact, it's everything but the city that attracts people here and it was also for this same reason that the Portuguese named it Ilha Formosa (beautiful island).

As soon as I arrived, I met Chad at the train station and headed east towards Hualien. This tiny city is located on the east coast, nestled in between mountains and the Pacific Ocean. From here we planned to rent scooters and putt putt north on the east coast highway towards Toroko national park which is a gorge - a valley created by water, an area made up of numerous lush mountains and also houses aborigine villages.
Hualien attracts tourists for this main reason since it doesn't have much else to offer other than the stunning scenery.

dumplings

We couch surfed with a local who took us to a night market and introduced us to some delicious Taiwanese snacks. My favourite was the coffin bread which is french toast, but cut out and stuffed with your meat of choice. The dumplings are also to die for, hand made and savoury!

ready to hit the road on our scooters

A night Hualien is just as much as you need. We took off the next day on rented scooters toward Taroko which is about an hour ride from the city. Highways in Taiwan have a scooter lane making it safe and easy to ride here, in comparison to other countries in Asia.
Once at Taroko we were in awe.. from the beauty of the mountains and the numerous waterfalls. The plan was to camp for the night and only one of the two campgrounds were open. Also numerous trails in the park were shut down, most likely due to the typhoon that took place just days earlier. The campground was about halfway into the national park, about a 40 min drive on the curvy roads underneath rock, mountains and waterfalls. Stunning to say the least!

the gorge

The park wasn't too crowded due to the moon festival which is similar to Korean thanksgiving - a tradition to honor the harvest. This day is also the one day of the year that the full moon is the biggest. It was serene to ride along the roads at night, into the moonlight as it glistened onto the valley waters, amidst mountains. That one moment of time has been ingrained in me, pictures simply can not do it justice so I didn't even try.

Waking up the raging waterfall was a different sort of wake up call. The air was refreshing and crisp. We headed back to Hualien in order to head to our next destination via train - Tainan. So far, this trip is turning out to be pretty amazing.

Sunny Singy!

2010-07-17T21:02:00.053+09:00

I returned anxiously to Singapore where I had 3 more nights before my flight back to Busan. This would also mean the inevitable end to my wonderful summer vacation, so of course, I had to go big before I go to my Korean home.

I met Susy in Borneo and she was heading to Singy at the same time as I was. We decided to hang out together for our time in Singapore. We both decided on main thing we both really wanted to do - Universal Studios! It had just opened in Singapore this year and tix were hella expensive but I have never been to any of these theme parks so money didn't seem to be an obstacle.

Clark Quay

I felt like a kid again, so many different rides to choose from (although once inside we realized many weren't working yet) and pretty awesome movie themes - Shrek, Madagascar and Mummy Returns were my fave. We saw the Madagascar penguins put on a dance, rode a pretty cool indoor roller coaster that made me scream and saw a 4-D Shrek movie.
A pretty amazing day.

We also headed to Orchard Road for more shopping. An entire day was spent just shopping and I can't complain. It was wonderful to be power shopping and finding things that fit and don't look the same. The prices are a lot steeper than Korea but I'll pay for style, thanks. It actually reminded me of shopping at home because of the underground shopping malls that are all connected, and being able to understand the sale signs. In the end I spent way more than what I had budgeted. Maybe I'll get lucky at the casino?

Marina Bay Sands is a newly built hotel in Singapore. It is also home to one of the first casinos in Singy. Of course I am a casino fiend, can't get enough of roulette! And this place was filled with serious gamblers! Minimum bets started at $5-$10 for roulette and $50 for blackjack. Clearly I didn't stay for too long, I won $40 which was enough for one night. It is a massive casino in a beautifully expensive hotel. If I was a millionaire, I would def stay here.
a model of the Marina Bay Sands hotel and casino

It was quite comfortable to be in Singapore. The nights are humid but there are no mossies which was a much appreciated relief. The days seemed to go by too fast. Susy and I explored by day and partied it up by night. After all, Singapore has one of the best nightlife scenes in Asia. I was also lucky to know a couchsurfer in Singy who took us to all the hot spots. The main area is Clark Quay right on the river. People head here to pre-drink by the river before hitting up the clubs. Drinks and cover are uber expensive, basically Toronto prices and a bottle of vodka will make you dig deep in your pockets - $50!!
I felt at home at Clark Quay, reminded me of the entertainment district in Toronto due to the line of clubs, bars and restaurants. People here know how to party; we had fabulous nights!

shopping on Orchard Road

It was dangerous because at the end of my trip the only thing that kept ringing in my mind was that I could live here. Maybe I should apply for jobs.. just to see what fate has in store. After all, everyone here seems pretty content. It's a diverse little island with happy hearts, clean streets, amazing fashion sense, plethora of cuisine and tropical weather.
Urban paradise does exist.

Land of the Headhunters

2010-07-14T17:18:00.088+09:00

Bako National Park

Kuching is the capital of the state of Sarawak, the other state together with Sabah which makes up Malaysian Borneo.

The weekend I landed here was also the weekend of the Rainforest World Music Festival which brings in heaps of people from all over the world into this city.
Heading to Kuching was a last minute decision for me so everything was planned on a whim. I arrived with no accommodation booked (a rarity with my extensive travel planning) so I just took a cab into the city from the airport and ended up at a pretty nice hostel, just across from the Hilton.

longhouse

Due to the festival most of the accommodations were booked up, but this also meant that the city was buzzing. The Hilton had a bus that went directly to the festival and I was able to get tickets at the gate. The cool part about this fest is that the concerts are in the evening, amidst a rainforest setting with a muddy moshpit, with musical workshops during the day that take place in indigenous longhouses, where you get to learn about the music, the musicians and their influences.
rainforest sunset

I attended all three workshops for each time slot on my own, and really enjoyed the small group environment where you got to know the musicians and understand their music. This fest was started by an American a few years ago and features music from all over the world!
Aside from music there are loads of food to try, craft huts to visit (and purchase which I did!) and the beautiful rainforest scenery and longhouses to admire. The fest is set in the Sarawak cultural village which is a learning center that teaches about the history of the Sarawak people and their various different tribes.

moshpit

I met a few Couchsurfers in the evening just before the concert started and the rain decided to pour on us. It was quite fun to be ankle deep in splashing mud, dressed in a bright yellow plastic bag.. I mean rain coat, with people I just met while listening to some amazing music in languages I couldn't understand. This included North and South Indian percussionists (Layatharanga, Musafir Gypsies of Rajasthan), traditional European music from the Renaissance era, Bornean tribal music (Pingansan'K), a French Canadian band (de Temps Antan) and my fave, a fusion band from China (Yerboli). This festival alone made my trip to Kuching totally worth it!
And this was just my first day there ...

The next day was spent exploring the city of Kuching itself. It is located just south of the Sarawak river and easy to navigate on foot since it's very small. The locals all spoke English and were extremely friendly. Taxi drivers constantly warned me about bag snatchers so it did have me paranoid as I walked the streets alone, especially by night.
Being in close proximity to the rainforest, Kuching is quite a humid city by day with refreshingly cool evenings and random showers throughout the day.

The cuisine in Sarawak is also a tad bit different. My fave dish so far in Malaysia has been the Sarawak Laksa - a spicy noodle soup with prawns, tofu, chicken and egg.

After a day of wandering I became pretty acquainted with the city and spent hours browsing shops and hanging out by the river. Jalan Bazaar is the main market street, but is quite disappointing since the name is misleading- it's not a bazaar or market at all! They only feature tons of souvenirs shops featuring all the same products.

sleeping proboscis monkey

My last day in Kuching I headed to Bako National Park which is about an hour away by bus and is the oldest national park in Sarawak. This park is known for its resident proboscis monkeys and its location which is a 45 min boat ride away, from the bus drop.
The trip is absolutely worth it! I trekked for 3 hours through numerous terrains including the jungle and a dry plateau that overlooks the ocean. Even in the the intense daytime heat, while drenched in sweat, it was hard not to appreciate the stunning scenery and being able to look at pitcher plants so close up. I was also lucky to see a sleeping proboscis monkey right at the beginning of my trek. I ended up at one of the deserted beaches, where you have to agree with a boatman beforehand to meet you at to take you back to the mainland.

view from the top

Sarawak is a beautiful land. It's filled with untouched nature that creates an illusive world. Borneo on the whole is breath taking and has been worth the venture. I have never been off the beaten track like I have been here. It has taught me a new way of travelling and I definitely appreciated having the chance to travel on my own, even if for a few days.

The Mighty Jungle

2010-07-10T17:15:00.106+09:00

Sandakan was the capital of the state of Sabah before WWII. Now it is the jumping point to Sepilok where you can find loads of tour companies ready to take you into the jungle, along the Kinagabatagan river. We flew into Sandakan from KK and were picked up by our jungle tour company - Uncle Tan's. They drove us off to Sepilok which is the starting point to any jungle tour in Sabah. It is also home to one of two Orang Utan rehabilitation centers in the world.

courtesy of www.somethingfine.com

The jungle and our ape cousins are the 2 main reasons I made the trek out to Sabah.

The day started with a very humid visit to the Orang Utans who are 98% genetically the same as humans. Many of these intelligent creatures are losing their homes to palm tree oil plantations and also being taken in as pets. The reason everyone flocks to Borneo is to set eyes on these apes who are endemic to Borneo. The rehab center began in the 80's and has flourished over the past decade to international fame. If you go at the right time, you may have an orang utan come right up to you. Unfortunately, I wasn't that lucky enough but I did get to see a feeding that was very much similar to a feeding at the zoo except that they come into the center from the jungle out of their own will.

From there we headed with Uncle Tan's towards the lifeline of Sabah - the Kinabangtan river, the doorway into the jungle in order to explore the unique wildlife of Borneo. The river itself is not very appealing. It's chocolate brown in color due to the silt and does not look refreshing. However we spent 3 days cruising up and down this river on boats trying to spot wildlife. We were able to do a morning cruise at 6am just as the sun was rising, and evening tour as the sun was setting (my favourite) and a night cruise, at about 10pm.
Wildlife spotted include the following:
long tail macaque
orang utan
kingfisher
proboscis monkey
monitor lizard
egrets
eagles
wood owl
millipedes
flying fox (the biggest bat)
and numerous colorful butterflies!

river sunsets

We were also taken on a jungle hike with Welles and all because its quite wet and humid around here. But that results in beautiful lush and green scenery and unique trees. I ditched out on the night hike because I was exhausted after sleeping under stinky mossie nets and a thin mattress in a jungle hut with no door or fan for 2 nights. I chose to chill out with the Uncle Tan boys who call themselves 'men of the jungle' and chill out each night strumming the same tunes, Tiger beers in hand, just loving life. These guys come from the villages surrounding the village and know the jungles and its inhabitants like the back of their hands. They definitely made our trip very memorable! Their motto is 'You shy, you die!' which really is true because the more you talk to everyone at the camp, the better your time there. I met a great group of people with Kristen who enriched our time at the camp. And with nothing to do but explore wildlife, eat the delicious home-cooked jungle meals and sing along at night, you do have to turn to your neighbour and get to know them.

The jungle gives you a laid-back attitude, where I really did feel in one with nature. It is by no means easy to survive though! I paranoid of fire ants and the long tail macaque were frequent visitors at our camps, especially in the mornings throwing things at our huts.

Leaving camp was very melancholy. Who knew that in 3 days you would have created such wonderful memories?!
We headed back to Sepilok and stayed at Paganakandii which was highly recommended by many backpackers. Kristen and I just wanted to shower!! After all, it had been 3 days since we refused to jump in the chocolate brown river.

our group at Uncle Tan's

For a backpacker accommodation this place was beautiful! The entrance had a mini-zoo with random animals like deer and a cockatoo. We stayed in the bunk dorm which was built in a longhouse style, all wood and very clean. The resort is pretty secluded (as is most places in Sepilok) so we hung out and enjoyed the rest.

looking for orang utans in the jungle

I spent a day in the 'town' - Sandakan. The main reason to head there was to get money exchanged which seems to be an impossible task in Borneo. They only accept $100 US dollar notes! After an hour bus ride I finally found my way into the city center right on the waterfront.
Sandakan waterfront

World cup fever was in full effect and this was most visible on the buses which are independently owned. Most people aren't able to watch the game, but the excitement comes in making bets and gambling which is a national past time here. Can you blame them?
Borneo also seems to be a modern Muslim nation; many women wore hijabs, along with leggings and tank tops. Being a solo woman traveller also attracts a lot of annoying attention. No one spoke English but there were plenty of KFC's to make you feel like home. I didn't feel exactly safe in Sandakan and once I got my money exchanged, had some chicken for lunch, and took a walk on the boardwalk, I was ready to get back.

pitcher plant

After finding the bus back to Sepilok, a girl on the bus befriended me since she was worried about me being on the bus alone, even though it was only 2pm!

The last place of exploration was the rainforest discovery center that is located in Sepilok. This is a great intro to the rainforest's flora. Kristen and I enjoyed a leisurely walk among the flower gardens where I saw numerous pitcher plants. We also came across cool insects and the longest earthworm I had ever seen! The canopy walk was the reason I had come here to begin with, and it was the most disappointing part. Nonetheless, it is worth a visit and there are some long tail macaques hanging around, just waiting to jump on humans.

Malaysian Borneo

2010-07-04T17:45:00.064+09:00

It's refreshing to get away and travel alone again. No one to answer to, no one to escort you, and you can do as you please. Yes, I feel like an adult again!
After a long flight from Colombo, to KL, then to Kota Kinabalu I met my friend Kristen at our hostel. So technically I'm not alone, but I really like having a friend - not someone you just met - to travel with because it can be difficult to compromise on what to do and how much to spend.

KK is a small town yet has the biggest airport for the state of Sabah. Most travellers head here to climb the mountain - Mount Kinabalu, the tallest mountain in South East Asia. A 10 min drive from the airport gets you into the city center which is filled with backpackers and BnB's. For most independent travellers this is the base to head either south to Mulu National park (featured in Planet Earth) or east towards Sipadan where the diving is meant to be the world's best.
We were in KK for 2 nights before heading east ourselves, to Sandakan and head into the jungle.

animals are hot tickets at the Sunday market

Sunday was spent at the Sunday market which happens in Chinatown. It's pretty big and you can spend hours battling the heat and haggling. The variety is wonderful and we got some good deals. After the market we headed to the Jessleton pier to catch a boat towards Tulka Abdul Rahman Marine Park. Somehow we ended up at the local pier and of course touts were running up to us to give us 'deals'. In the end, for 40 ringgits we got a boat to take us there for the day, plus snorkel rental which we didn't even end up using because it was murky with mildew in it. We ended up on Manukan Island, the most popular island with a resort and plenty of facilities like a convenience store and showers. We ended up renting cleaner snorkels but the water had almost no visibility, but there were definitely some very big and colorful fish in those waters.
The beach was nice with blue waters, but nothing to boast about. And it was refreshing to get away from the city where it seemed to rain everyday for just a little bit. Add on the humidity and you got a summer mess!

The locals were really friendly and everyone spoke in English. I love exploring grocery stores in new countries, it always gives you an idea of what the culture is like, I can spend hours exploring. Prices were cheap and mangoes were everywhere. I was very happy.
on the pier at Manukan island

By night KK gets deserted pretty fast, and I got a serious unsafe vibe. A few girls at our hostel also told us a story about almost getting robbed by the pier. Of course this kept us alert. We headed to the night market on our last night but with a group of 5 which included a guy. It still didn't keep the men's attention off of us, whistling and making comments is somewhat a hobby for loitering Malaysian males. They find it amusing even though they never get any sort of response to all of it.
The night market is by the seafront and next to all the western styled pubs and restaurants. I don't understand why people would travel all this way to NOT try the local cuisine and stick to what they know. Besides, seafood is fresh and the best at the local markets plus cheap!

The fish I had wasn't the best (too dry) but add on the rice and I was satisfied. The local restaurants are also clean, cheap and delicious. Malaysian food has always been one of my faves due its fusion with Indian and Chinese. You get the best of both worlds, and Milo!

KK doesn't have much to see, but as a jumping point it can be amusing for a day. No longer, no less.

Beaches and Sunsets

2010-07-02T18:40:00.037+09:00

The most famous beach in Colombo is Galle Face. The navy port is also based around the beach so it had been off limits for some time now. Heavy security with ID checks guard the area around beach, which is also surrounded by numerous international hotels and bars.

The locals come here to get the scent of fresh salt water while the sun sets over the Indian Ocean. It is the largest open space in Colombo. Ironically, the beach is posted with no swimming signs because the waves are too strong and you can feel the splash of the water from the promenade. The sunsets are simply gorgeous and it’s a wonderful way to hang out with the family or friends, buying snacks from vendors and people watching.

Mount Lavinia is located about an hour south of Colombo by bus, and it is the other most famous beach in the surrounding area. This is due to its resort feel, which attracts much of the foreign crowd. The area around the beach has numerous accommodations and the locals on the beach seem to really now how to sell you things you don’t need.

The beach is more isolated and you don’t get the feel that you are in a city anymore. At the tip you see the Mount Lavinia hotel, a white Victorian style building which gleams at the bay. Along the strip there are loads of local restaurants and couples hiding underneath umbrellas, in between the rocks. Further down the beach are the slums, filled with locals who probably work the beach and live off the tourists. The locals here are super friendly because they are more used to the tourist.

We went to Mount Lavinia hotel for tea time and it was true class! It caters purely to the foreign crowd, with a swimming pool overlooking the ocean. It was beautiful indeed and the prices weren’t too shabby.

Returning back to Colombo I took the train from Mount Lavinia station, which is also located just off the beach. This train winds down the coast as it heads north to the city and the views are beautiful. It passes by slums and the waves. In less than an hour you end up at Fort Station, in the heart of Colombo next to Pettah market.

No matter how beautiful the beaches, it really is a danger to swim in them. The waves easily took off my sandals when I was in ankle deep water so I can’t imagine how it would be to be fully immersed.

One of my last days was spent at the Dehiwala zoo. I was told that it was quite an impressive zoo for a small country, and that it really was. The Sunday I went it was pretty packed with families. The indoor aquariums were the only air conditioned bit and the route to take is simply by following the numbers. This is the map you have to follow:

which is really a signboard at the entrance. Of course my friend

Las and I didn't realize that at the beginning and did a totally confusing loop and ended up spending more time resting by the animals rathar than actually admiring them. Most of the animals could be seen up close which was cool. Most of the animals were also pacing due to the heat and lack of space which is so not cool!

As my time in my motherland comes to a close I am truly sad to say goodbye. This has been a trip of a lifetime for me, something that I have waited 25 years for. This land has exceeded all my expectations and I feel a warmth and belonging that is indescribable. I can not wait to return someday… soon!

Lanka's Hill Country

2010-06-25T13:41:00.018+09:00

It was due to time to escape the heat, so we all headed to the hill country in the central province. On the way we took a pit stop in Pinnewala at the well known elephant sanctuary, where they charge you 100 rupees if you are a local and 2000 rupees if you are a foreigner!! Luckily my Canadian passport says born in Lanka, which was good enough to pass on the local bill.

The elephant sanctuary was a let down; loads of elephants were chained up which defeats the purpose of sanctuary, doesn't it? There were also heaps roaming around and you can get right up near them, although I wouldn't recommend getting too close. A couple were injured and most of the elephants here are rescued from various parts of the country. The usual bathing time was cancelled due to low water levels in the nearby river, but that is usually the grand spectacle.

Kandy reminded me of Kodaikanal (in

India

) because the town is centered around a lake and it is a multicultural environment with a cool climate. Next to the lake is the main attraction of the city – Palada Magaligawa where a tooth of the Buddha rests. This shrine is very old and very sacred to Buddhist so of course there is heavy security in place due to fear of bomb threats. Kandy is filled with botanical gardens which Sri Lankans seem to love.
the Magaligawa

The ride to Nuwara Eliya from Kandy is long; you basically wind up through the hills towards 1800 meters above sea level. You feel the chill of the air instantly and it's quite refreshing after all the Colombo heat. The drive is filled with heaps and heaps of tea fields and waterfalls. We stopped at Mackwoods tea estate for a free tour of how tea is made and of course, tea time. It's quite cheap to buy tea from the estates and Mackwoods is one of the oldest estates in the country.

Once at the top which is where Nuwara Eliya is located, there are a lot of gardens and hotels. This place caters to tourists and thrives on it with horse riding, boat rides and sweaters for sale. There also many farms nearby which are worth a visit, to check out the cows and rabbits all caged up and to buy fresh milk.

The scenery up here is like no other; miles and miles of green pastures with black and white cows grazing, it feels like

Switzerland

yet you are in a tropical island in South Asia!

tea house at Mackwood's tea estate

Due to the cool climate the vegetation is also different with loads of leeks and cabbage farms. A hat and sweater is definitely needed, especially at night where I couldn't sleep a wink because of how cold it was in our hotel room. Only 5 star hotels have heaters.

The population in Nuwara Eliya consists mainly of Indian Tamils who immigrated to

Sri Lanka

to work on the tea estates many years ago, but these workers aren't treated the best even though tea is the heart of the country. The locals are simple and mainly poor, living in basic dwellings and roaming the hills with no shoes. It's a hard life, climbing up and down but away from all the chaos.

picking tea in the fields

On our way back from hill county the locals were celebrating Poiya, a Buddhist holiday commemorating the arrival of Buddhism in

Sri Lanka

. The celebration includes stopping cars on the road and giving the people meals, snacks and drinks for good karma. Our entire ride back to Colombo we were stopped more than 10 times, and it was nice to see how the people of Lanka respect each others religion and participate kindly with strangers.

The Hometown

2010-06-20T23:28:00.002+09:00

Just like any other Asian city, people are all out to rip you off. The advantage of travelling with my family is that I can let them do all the talking. Besides, they have much more experience at negotiating prices than I do. Sri Lanka has a bad reputation as well for ripping off tourists, even if you look Sri Lankan, they will still try. Money is well-sought after being a post-war developing nation. The greed is understandable but not completely acceptable.

Kayts

After an 8 hour bus ride from hell which we paid 650 rupees for (less than $6) along the bumpy road north, we finally arrived in my hometown of Jaffna, the capital of Jaffna province (the northern point of Sri Lanka) with a swollen foot and a case of food poisoning (both of which I survived).

The first thing I noticed was that Sri Lanka is not as war torn as I anticipated. Tamils abroad love to rave and roar about how our homeland is destroyed. My mother did complain about how it is different; businesses aren't the same and there aren't as many street lights as there used to be but it's hard to believe that just a year ago, bombs were being thrown and people were running for their lives. The only evidence of this are the abandoned and half broken buildings. These are scattered far and in between in Jaffna, at random corners and people use them as a hang out spot, along with the goats and dogs.

It is essential to know Tamil in Jaffna especially when it comes to meeting family. Everyone speaks a little bit of basic English, but to really get to know people you need to speak Jaffna Tamil which means annunciating your words.

Vellanai Beach

I met more family who have known me as a baby but I was meeting for the first time. We spent all day Saturday exploring the island west of Jaffna – Kayts. This is also the hometown of my grandfather and the family I was visiting are the cousins of my grandfather who had now moved to Jaffna and Colombo due to the war. We were all going back after numerous years. The island was pretty abandoned since most families had fled overseas (like our own). Being a Catholic family, we made our rounds to ALL the churches in Kayts and Karampon (a small village on the island) and I also got to see the school my grandfather and my uncle went to. We also tried to find my uncle's dowry house and my grandmother's (my grandfather's cousin's) house; one was broken apart and had trees growing in it, the other we were unable to get to since the path had been blocked by overgrown plants. With the absence of a community, the village is unkept and becoming a jungle. Karampon is overwhelming Catholic but the churches give it a peaceful vibe and its remaining citizens lead a breezy and simple life, away from the hustle and bustle of the town.

After hitting up St. Ann's church, St. Sebastian's church and Vellangani church we finally had some down time at Vellanai beach which is breezy and a great spot to relax and eat. We also noticed heaps of Sinhalese tourists at the beach and around which is pretty peculiar, but I was told that the president is paying the families of soldiers to hit up the north in order to promote tourism and harmony. So far I suppose its working well; I didn't feel much animosity although there are a few who feel threatened that the Sinhalese people might take over businesses and the whole unfair advantage might rise up again, creating a pre-war tension.

Jaffna town

Sunday was spent in my grandmother's village – Earlalai, the village of red soil. A few of my grandmother's cousins are still living there so it was really nice to see them and see the village where my grandmother grew up. This place was a real village, with loads of jackfruit, papaya and mango trees, rattan fences and even some straw huts. Earlalai is about 30 mins by auto from Jaffna but my mom used to take the bus in her days with her mother, which took her about an hour plus they had to walk into the village from the bus stop which was about another 30 mins, and don't forget to add on the intensity of the sun.

My aunts house had chickens and roosters running around in the yard along with the dogs and the cat. I loved that this mini farm was their home, and they had fresh eggs daily but without as much work as a real farm.

After visiting these villages it was easy for me to understand where my mom's values came from. It's true that you do need to go back to your roots to understand yourself and I'm very grateful for having met the people I have and seen what I have. No one in my family is very rich, they all live a modest life which they have worked their whole lives to achieve. At certain points they were all poor, as in watching their rupees and saving so they could pay their tuition fees for school. Education has always been the key to success (specifically in English medium) and this shows in the numerous tutoring centers located all across Jaffna town. Studying is a full time job, one that parents invest in with loads of hope. Talk about pressure for their kids!

But if it wasn't for this education people like my mom and her sisters wouldn't have been able to have a successful future in Canada, and for that they are forever grateful to my grandparents.

Earlalai

Jaffna town is the city center and it really is just a town than a city. The main market is located here along with streets lined with jewelery shops, clothing shops, bus stands, movie theaters and restaurants. The city center is compact and walkable yet the heat does persuade otherwise. The town is loud and can be overwhelmingly busy at all times. It's only about a 10 mins auto ride from the residential part of Jaffna, which is lined with all the houses and smaller scale stores. Much like Colombo, Jaffna also shuts down by 7 or 8pm. At night you spent all your energy fighting off the mosquitoes and watching tv, before eating a good meal and getting to bed by 9pm for your 5am wake up.

Simple yet satisfying.

The Motherland

2010-06-16T19:38:00.002+09:00

As my flight was beginning to land in Colombo, I felt nervous. I didn't know what to expect since I was returning to my birthplace after 25 years. I have no recollection of the first 2 years of my life that was spent in Sri Lanka but I was very excited to see what could have been. From the window all I could see was lush, greenery for miles. Already I was feeling awe from how beautiful my motherland looked from above.

Colombo reminded me of the big cities in Tamil Nadu right away – the cows on the street (not as many as India), the autos, people traffic, noise and pollution. The city is split into smaller areas and where I was staying with my family is well-known as a Tamil area. Everyone speaks English, and a lot more people speak Tamil than I had thought, with loads of different accents. It's the second time in my life that I have been in a country where I know the local language which makes me feel not like a tourist at all. I can understand, read and get by; I have never been more grateful for learning my mother tongue.
The military presence was obvious as soon as we got on the road. There are soldiers with AK-47s standing at various intersections and checkpoints are a plenty. I wasn't sure if this was for our safety and protection or for other reasons. The government has its reasons to be paranoid so I began to see it as a precaution for the people.
This being a family vacation (I'm travelling with my mom) I had strict rules, one being that I was not allowed to venture out on my own. In Colombo I stayed with my grandma and my uncle, so I was able to only explore the city with him escorting me around. In a way I felt like I was in an Islam nation, but all these precautions are taken because of how unsafe it really is. Theft and kidnappings are not unheard of, especially after dark. The streets are crowded with men standing around, looking for someone or something. The women generally stay home to cook, and watch TV.

Hikkaduwa Beach

I finally understood the expectations that were placed on females even outside of Sri Lanka; this is where it all stemmed from. Paranoia is at the root of Tamils due to the past and present state of distrust and corruption.

Due to this the streets of the city are dead after 9pm. This means the general day begins at about 5 or 6 am, right after the sun rises. These hours are the best because the heat isn't damaging yet. Once lunch is completed around 1 or 2pm, it's nap time. The intensity of the heat allows for nothing else. You need to rest to get through the humidity because air conditioning is a treat, most houses are only equipped with ceiling fans. Tea time follows nap time (my favourite part of the day) and the evening brings cool breezes along with pesky mosquitoes. Dinner is late at 8pm or so at which point the heat has exhausted you yet again.
It's a laid back simply lifestyle that at first glimpse I took to be boring. But I really can get used to this.

I spent a day at the Colombo national museum where 2 floors house the history of this country. There are numerous artifacts including the throne of the last king to rule Sri Lanka. The majority of the history was centered on Buddhism and the Sinhala kingdom, but the northern provinces and its kingdoms had some importance. I found it to be very informative and a good start to getting to know the culture and history of Lanka.

We also ventured south of Colombo to the beaches a day after I arrived. The west coast is off season at the moment, it's monsoon season. Luckily we haven't encountered any rain since we've been here. The sandy beaches are beautiful and an excellent getaway from the humidity of the city. In an hour or 2 you can explore numerous beaches on Galle Road which are all isolated. We spent some time in Hikkaduwa where I spotted real tourists in bathing suits swimming in the warm water. Unfortunately for me, hanging around in a bathing suit would only attract unwanted attraction for my brown skin, so instead we got a glass bottom boat to explore the corals. The fish come right up to shore and this beach is well known for snorkelling and diving.

Being a tourist area the restaurants and shops are very expensive. This strip reminded me of all the beach towns in Thailand but the difference is that there is also a lot of internal tourism in Sri Lanka as well but of course, it's the wealthy population that is able to afford such a luxury.

Not far from here lies Asia's largest reclining Buddha (although Bangkok claims the same). This Buddha is housed in a village, on top of a small hill in an ill kept Buddhist sanctuary. The donation board shows that numerous foreigners have also heard and found this place. We only came to know of it because of our driver, the inside sources always know. Along with the statue there were numerous paintings and statues of Bodhisattvas. The paint is wearing off and the temple is small but the donations are meant to help the monks renovate the place. The statue itself was pretty impressive and driving through a Sinhalese village was interesting. But to venture off track wasn't entirely worth it.

Next stop - Jaffna.

24 Hours in Singapore

2010-06-13T22:27:00.002+09:00

After my first twenty four hours in Singapore, I knew I had to come back. At first glimpse this city-country is very similar to Hong Kong. It's urban nature filled with glitzy shopping malls and it's waterfront skyline made me feel like I was barely in Asia. The difference with Hong Kong and Singapore is its culture – Singapore has more diversity and contains them in their specific areas such as Chinatown and Little India.
It's also very simple to navigate since English is widely spoken and there is a very well connected MRT system.
Singlish as it's popularly known was difficult for me to understand due to the Chinese annotations in they way they speak it. I found myself repeatedly saying 'huh?' and wondering why I couldn't understand even though they are speaking the same language as me. The ever popular slang is also adding 'lah' to the end of each sentence, much like in Malaysia where they also add 'yah' to the end.

I couch surfed with an excellent host originally from south India, as were his housemates who were all helpful in helping me understand the culture and structure of the city. For Asian standards, Singapore is on top. One Singapore dollar is at almost par with the Canadian dollar and Singapore life is comparable to western standards. The city is clean, the air is fresh and everything feels well organized which is very hard to find in an Asian city.

I started my day by hitting up Orchard Road, infamous for its shopping. Currently the Singapore sale is taking place which means a lot of shops have no taxes on their items. It is indeed a shopaholic's heaven! Price wise tho, it's not Thailand.. but compared to Korea the selection is beautiful!
The strict rules of the country don't apply in Little India where it really does feel like you are in Chennai. People cross the street at any given time, the billboards are written in Tamil and the cheapest shopping takes place right here. It's a different world to the rest of the country.
After a much needed Indian lunch I hit tourist central, by the waterfront where Singapore's iconic Merlion sits spitting water. The waterfront is being reconstructed at the moment with a brand new casino and it's clearly the hot spot sporting trendy cafes, along with the well-known Esplanade building where performing arts take place. The Esplanade building was first criticized for being hideous,but over the years it has come to another icon for the city since it looks like a durian fruit due to protruding spikes.

It's wonderful to be in a small city because it makes navigating much easier. Also, jumping in cabs in the intense heat is a viable option.
Changi airport is at the east end of the city, where one of the subway lines end. It's easy to get to and even spend a day if you have to because there is free wi-fi, and the airport is one of the best in the world – completely lush!
Singapore could quite easily be the city of the future.

Making Lanterns

2010-05-11T17:40:00.000+09:00

Korea used to be a predominantly Buddhist country. With westernization came Christianity and with time, crosses began to replace and push away the colorful temples. Luckily, if you venture into the many mountains that surround each city in Korea, you are bound to find a Buddhist temple still in tact, with monks and all.
In order to educate and preserve this aspect of Korean tradition, Hongpeop-sa (sa meaning temple in Korean) which is located in the eastern part of Busan holds a monthly cultural event for foreigners. This was my first time participating mainly because I tend to stay away from the foreigners only event, assuming that much culture can't really be understood in such an environment. This event however proved me wrong and I came home with 2 beautiful, hand-made lanterns feeling very enlightened and lucky to be able to participate in such an ordeal.

with my completed lanterns

Buddha's birthday is in a few weeks, and lighting lanterns is a way of celebration. Visiting a temple around this time is a real feast for your eyes because the temples are decorated with hundreds, if not thousands of colorful lanterns.

There are numerous tales to how lanterns became part of the Buddhist tradition. One such tale is about a woman named Nanda who came upon a celebration which lasted for 3 months. When asked what the celebration was about she was told that the king was offering food, medicine and clothes to Buddha and his disciples. Nanda was poor and had nothing to offer Budda, so on the path that Buddha was to pass by she hung a lantern which she bought with her little money. The lantern that she hung outshone all the other lanterns on this path and when Buddha's disciple asked him about why only her lantern was still lit, Buddha replied it was because the lantern represented the true pure mind of Nanda and she was already enlightened.
Octagon Lantern in the making

The lanterns are made with paper and in Korea with Korean paper. They come in numerous colors and the hand-made paper really make them beautiful. I got to make 2 lanterns - a lotus lantern and an octagon lantern.
The metal frame both lanterns are similar, but the frame for the lotus lantern is much smaller. The octagon lantern was simple to make, just having to glue on 8 pieces of paper. On the finished lantern you attach a wish, which you write and hang from the bottom.

Lotus Lantern in the making

The lotus lantern is a bit more complicated and the result is a gorgeous lantern that I just can't believe I made on my own!
The lotus lantern consists of 5 rows of 13 pieces of petal paper. You choose a color for the flower part, and the base is made of 8 pieces of green petal paper which are the leaves at the bottom of the lotus.

The lotus has been a symbol representing Buddhism for centuries now. The lotus is a flower that spreads beauty and cleanliness, even though it grows in the mud. It demonstrates that a person can acquire cleanliness of mind and spirit, regardless of what environment they come from. The burning of the lantern means sacrifice and wisdom to lighten the darkness of the world.

with my wish

Flying High!

2010-05-06T18:05:00.006+09:00

I never thought that I'd have the guts to actually jump off a mountain, but I'm very proud to say that it's one of the fears that I have fiercely accomplished!
After driving 2 hours north out of Busan, we ended up at the base of a mountain, just outside of Daegu. It's was amidst a small Korean farming community where adjumas (Korean women) were walking the streets in their mismatched flower print outfits, laying out peppers to dry in the spring heat. The sky was hazy, but the winds were just a tad less than too windy for paragliding.

Paragliding is a leisure sport that is not very popular, and can be quite expensive in North America to pursue since it's equipment heavy. In Korea however, you can test your heights for a 100,000 won and with someone who will control your flight. You get the security along with this wonderful experience of feeling like a bird, and seeing beautiful Korea in all its glory from the skies. It definitely was one of my most memorable experiences!
getting geared up

We were driven to the top with our hearts pounding. The pilots quickly strapped us in the harness and I was told to run down the mountain (this was the scary part). Before I could even comprehend what I really had to do, I was up in the air!

Once you float above the mountains, it’s a whole other world. You feel absolutely light and surreal, with a bird’s eye view of the countryside below you. After about 20 minutes of gliding through the sky where you are progressively flying lower, it’s time to land. You hear mixed things about having to land on your feet (the other scary part you can't stop thinking about), but because you are strapped onto a harness that is completely protecting your bum it’s much easier to just fall right on it. The location of landing was also unclear (go figure, no one speaks any English!); the pilot just chose a spot that is closest to the road that is not concrete. In my case, it was dirt field and the landing was very soft and easy. The parachute landed right above us as well so it took some time to dig through it and get out. I got up and realized where I really was - by the cows in the middle of nowhere!

I was gleaming the whole time through; conquering my fear of heights AND being able to soar through the skies, making it out alive?! It was a fantastic day!

Unfortunately though the skies were hazy and the winds started getting to be a bit too strong. Not everyone got to fly on this day as well and that’s the big flaw with a weather-dependent sport. After waiting for numerous hours for the wind to calm down, we had to head back to Busan, with the rest of the group having to fly at a later date totally disappointed.

The Perfect End to a Perfect Vacay!

2010-03-28T18:14:00.044+09:00

Initially I wanted to scuba dive. I haven't yet explored underwater since my certification in Thailand a year ago. But not having diving buddies can be discouraging. Instead I chose to sea walk or helmet dive with my friends and I'm definitely pleased with my decision to do so!

You get escorted by scuba divers underwater, a few meters or so with a massive helmet that weighs a few kilos that is supplying you oxygen the entire time. You don't need to do much other than equalize as you go down and once at the bottom of the ocean floor, you get to chill out while the scuba divers take pics of you and the beautiful fish. The visibility wasn't the best but being able to be underwater with this helmet on my head still made me feel like an astronaut. This is especially ideal for non-swimmers because you get to hold on to a rope as well the entire time. Our scuba diver escorts were also extremely accommodating and made us feel safe the whole time. I was quite skeptical at first, the idea sounds absurd, but it turned out to be one of the best experiences of my life. I still prefer to scuba dive though but to be underwater with just a helmet on.. it's surreal!

helmet diving

After a great morning of sea walking we decided to go horse back riding in the afternoon. Another first for me and something that I have always wanted to do but have been nervous to actually do it. We headed off the beach for this, since the stables are located more inland, in heart of the town that's on the island. Of course all eyes were on us the entire time as we rode these horses for an hour past local houses and Boracay life as it happened.
I was still nervous, picturing myself getting thrown off the horse and being paralyzed forever. My horse was also pretty naughty the whole time which made me more nervous but thank goodness for the little Filipino boy who was learning how to tame him and kept hitting him with a stick (very cruel, but it worked!). After about 30 minutes into the ride I finally felt calm but of course my ass had to start hurting. How do these horse riders do it? It was very cool to see another perspective of the island.

Our entire time in Boracay has really been one big party. This island is known as party central in the Philippines and attracts domestic and international tourists. It's home to prostitution as well which brings in heaps of Caucasian male tourists. They also play top 40 music over and over again which is not annoying at all when you are downing Redbull and vodka all night long. The party vibe is strong and it feels like the tourists never sleep.
partying with the locals

Our last night in Boracay had to be memorable. We were already dreading heading back to Korea and the end of our spring break. Lucky for us, we got an inclusive invite for a private open bar party at Shangri-La, the ritziest resort on the island, tucked away in its own corner with high security and people treating you as if you are a celebrity. It was a magical way to say goodbye to what seems to have become one of my favorite places. The final sunset was exquisite and life was good!

back on the boat, heading to the airport

The Philippines has been an unforgettable experience. Somehow everything worked out in our favour and it's the first time that I haven't felt the need to plan out my trip. Maybe it's the experience of traveling that has made my nerves calm down, but whatever it is, I have become extremely more comfortable traveling in Asia.

Sweet Paradise

2010-03-26T15:49:00.040+09:00

The most anticipated part of our trip to the Philippines has been spending time in Boracay. My friends and I have been craving for sun and sand for the past few months in rainy, cold Busan.

White Beach

I wasn't sure exactly how we were going to get to the island but I knew we were gonna make it somehow. Flights only get into Caticlan airport - they don't fly into the island of Boracay itself. But once at the tiny tropical (as in open air, no doors, no real security) airport, finding transportation the island worked itself out much like in Thailand. We had to ride 2 tricycles (the Filipino version of a Thai tuk tuk but seats 3-4 people) and a dinky boat. But once we got to our hotel, we were completely in heaven!!

Le Soleil has been the best hotel I have ever stayed at. The customer service was excellent, along with its prime beachfront location on White Beach, next to all the action. We instantly knew the next few days were going be just as we had imagined it to be.

After a day of relaxing and soaking up the sun I was ready to explore. My friend Maria's 'hairdresser' (the lady that gave her Jamaican braids) was of course selling us on everything possible to do in sight. We finally gave in on what we thought was a deal and spent the day out on a boat, in pursuit of snorkelling around the island. The boats here are all pretty small and it was nice to have the boat just to ourselves, plus the hairdresser and the boatmen. Unfortunately it was an extremely windy day and the boat ride was not pleasant at all! The places promised to visit were apparently inaccessible due to the rocky waves and the spot she took us to snorkel had jellyfish!!
I was not a happy camper. We had to politely ask to be taken elsewhere so we could at least get our money's worth of snorkelling in for the day.

Puka Beach

The best part of the day was visiting Puka beach which is on the north side. It's a shell beach which is completely isolated and is rather small. White Beach in comparison is about 5 times as big. Around the island there are loads of private beaches and villas. Bulagog beach which is directly opposite White Beach on the island is famous for kite surfing and we met an awesome couch surfer from Scandinavia who was there for months, just kite surfing. It was great to have someone that showed us where to go at night as well since White beach is packed with bars that come filled with prostitutes.

It's simply wonderful to lie in the sun, sipping fresh mango juice and experience magical sunsets. Being called 'maam' every 5 minutes however, can get to be very annoying.

Filipino Spring Break

2010-03-23T10:25:00.064+09:00

As soon as I stepped off the plane in Cebu city I could feel the humidity. I knew the next 7 days were gonna be awesome, simply because of the warm weather. It's a much needed break from rainy Busan and work that my friends and I had been looking forward to.

Santo Nino Basilica

Cebu is one of the oldest cities in the Philippines and also the birth of Catholicism. Santo Nino basilica is the center of the city and after a look around, we headed to the next main sight that was recommended, the Taoist temple which is located in the wealthy suburbs of Beverly Hills.
Our last day was spent hotel crashing the Hilton located on Mactan island (same island where the airport is located) to get some beach time. All the beaches are located on this island but are privately owned by the hotels. The Hilton was fairly quiet and very luxurious.
A lot of time was spent in taxis since local transportation in Cebu consists of jeepneys which people jump into the back of and the routes are painted on the sides. It was too chaotic and dangerous we felt for 4 girls to jump into those in the middle of Asian traffic.
Taoist temple
Our 2 days in Cebu was enough time to see the city. There aren't many touristic sights and going out after dark proved to be slightly scary. Even the foreigners were afraid when we approached them for directions. This is due to the poverty in Cebu which can be seen in every corner of this city. Families living off the streets with toddlers is truly heart-breaking. There also doesn't seem to be too much tourism or even foreigners for that matter. Cebu is like any other big city in Asia that has a distinct divide of the rich and poor. You really feel rich in the Philippines where 40 pesos (about $1) can get you around the city in a cab. It reminded me much of Thailand where massages and meals are cheap cheap!

The ideal place to escape the heat are the malls which are clearly designed for the tourists and foreigners. You need to pass through metal detectors and searched before you enter and the malls are designed to really make you feel at home and forget where you really are. These malls were created only with these foreigners in mind and it's sad to see such money and resources go to waste when it could be spent towards helping the locals that are really in need.

Cebu Hilton pool

The first culture shock of being in the Philippines was that everyone spoke English! Even as they spoke Tagalog, parts of English was always meshed together in their sentences, similar to how they speak Hindi or Tamil in India. This made our trip so much easier because we were able to communicate and figure things out without wasting much time.
The second biggest difference was tipping - you must tip EVERYWHERE and after living in Korea where tipping in non-existent, you totally forget about the etiquette and it soon becomes annoying.

jeepneys are local transporation

Cebu is definitely not on the backpacker's list of must-see Asian destinations. However it has somehow crept into the east Asians quick getaway destinations due to it close proximity to Japan and Korea. There were heaps of Korean restaurants and Korean business flourishing in Cebu and we were told that many Koreans move there for these business opportunities. Of course places like the Hilton cater to these tourists, who only see what they want to see and can stay far away from the chaos of the real city.

Even though I already know how money brings luxury in Asia, my heart still bleeds when I go to places like this where this injustice is more apparent than in most other places.

Ringing in 2010 - London Styles!

2010-01-02T12:28:00.030+09:00

Back to London after a wonderful few days in Italia. The cold hit us as we stepped off the plane, along with the massive amounts of snow that had piled up over the past few days. While we were in mainland Europe, London apparently encountered the snowstorm of a century where the entire city stopped!
It's hard to imagine a city as busy and huge as London coming to a halt at all but I suppose weather can do that.

Uxbridge Tube Station - home base

There were many plans for London upon our return but due to tiredness and lack of time there was only so much we could actually do.
One of my biggest desires has been to watch a play in London and thanks to my amazing mates it had come true! I finally got to The Lion King musical in London on new years eve. It was very enjoyable for the eyes and ears and I feel lucky to have been able do share this moment with my closest friends. Getting these tickets were quite tough though, especially because we were standing in line the day before new years eve, hoping to get a deal. We paid a lot more than we had anticipated but again, well worth it!

After our wonderful day at the theater, we dolled up to head out into town (on a 1.5. hour tube ride) to ring in the new year. We ended up at a Tamil jam since we got a deal and really, I could have been anywhere in the world but what made this new years eve memorable was that I was in London with some of my bestest friends, eating samosas and mutton rolls and suffering the heartburn afterwards.

warnings!

It was a wonderful way to also end my 3 week journey in Europe. Of course my last day in Uxbridge was spent recuperating from the damage and relaxing before my 14 hour flight back to Korea.

City of Canals

2009-12-29T15:35:00.059+09:00

Venice is the ultimate holiday destination for couples and families. It is also the honeymoon capital of the world, perhaps even bigger than Paris. It is the most expensive city we have come across in Italy, even more expensive than Rome! There are no real budget places to stay as well so we found a holiday apartment that mainly families use in Mestre, which is the area next to tourist Venice.

St. Mark's Square

To stay in the heart of the canals was something we couldn't even fathom but reaching the city was only 30 mins by bus and boat and we got a more local vibe from where we stayed.

Venice is the prettiest city I have been to. It is very romantic even in the winter with its numerous canals and old world feel. It's awesome to have to take ferry boats to get around and experience the absence of cars. Everyone is able to relax on these boats which are very well organized even if on the tad expensive side for public transport.

The highlight of the city is St. Mark's square which is simply exquisite! It is the former center of the city from the ancient times for trade and culture. St. Mark's church is elaborate even from the outside with beautiful paintings. Venice is great to just walk around and admire all the bridges and tourist traffic. This city is a major tourist trap as well with the overwhelming amount of shops that lurk in each corner.

Rialto Bridge

The main attraction when it comes to shopping is Murano glass. Venice has become quite known for it and Murano glass comes from the island of Murano which is a boat ride from Venice itself. You can spend up to thousands of dollars on a Murano glass chandelier or statue, or you can spend a couple of bucks on some jewelery. Whatever floats your boat, but a purchase of this beautiful glass is a must when visiting Venice.

making Murano glass

We spent a day visiting the island itself, assuming the glass would be cheaper in its hometown. We were proven wrong though since we obviously weren't the only travellers with such a great idea. We did however get to see the glass get made in a factory, something that is interesting if its your first seeing how glass is made. It's a tedious process and quite dangerous as well. But it's wonderful to see art as it takes form.

Murano

Next to Murano is Burano, a quieter island that was recommended to us because of its unique culture. People of Burano are known to speak their own dialect and live a quiet life on this pretty isolated island. The houses were various colors which added to its unique appeal. The people here are mainly fishermen and the locals were very friendly. It's a great escape from busy Venice and probably one of my favorite spots due to the different ambiance.
colorful houses of Burano

It feels like a lot of time in Venice was spent shopping and browsing. It was a relaxing way to end our time in Italy - where we ate the best pasta in the world and drank lattes like it was going out of style.
Italy is such a beautiful country in many aspects. I hope to one day explore more of its rural areas and head more south. The lifestyle here seems very relaxed and leisurely, something that won't be so bad getting used to.

Firenze

2009-12-25T18:46:00.040+09:00

Everyone I spoke to about Italy told me that Florence was the best part. The couldn't explain why, but they would all awe about how beautiful the city was.
After coming here I can totally understand!

Santa Maria Duomo

Florence is definitely my favourite place that I have been to in Italy and it will be a hard one to top.

inside Duomo

It is a small city but one that is rich in history and the arts. Tuscan pasta has been by far the best we have encountered as well at very reasonable prices. The people are relaxed and extremely kind. It's a blessing to be here during Christmas to really enjoy our holidays.

Santa Maria Duomo is the center of the city and it feels like the city has been built around it. Florence is exactly what one would imagine Italy to be - cobblestone walkways, historic churches filled with elegant artwork, each unique with its own story, friendly locals and tourists who are keeping at an easy pace. The whole vibe of the city is refreshing.
This is also a university city filled with students yet you wouldn't get that vibe in the daytime, but by night Florence CAN party!

Amo river runs through the city and Ponte Vechio is the bridge filled with shops (and touts selling brand name bags). It's a pleasant site by night where people are strolling leisurely. The mild weather in Florence also put us in high spirits, allowing us to take in the city in an enjoyable manner. A lot of our time was spent walking, eating and exploring.

Our last day was spent trying to find Pizzale Michelangelo which was quite the task to find since taxis are quite hard to find in general. This pizzale is located a few feet above the city from where you get a magnificent view of the entire city. We got there for sunset and enjoyed the view with others.

Florence is also the home of the infamous David statue. There are numerous museums in Florence for the art buff but quite pricey if you aren't in the Euro state of mind. But Florence has much more to offer than just its art. It has an incredible vibe and something for everyone.

The Leaning Tower

2009-12-23T15:45:00.028+09:00

We took the train to Florence but rather than explore the city, we took off to Pisa for the day for the mandatory tourist pics with the infamous tower.

Pisa is about an hour from Florence and only 8 euros (that's quite a bargain here!). The train station is at one end of the town while the major tourist attraction is at the other, but the walk from one end to other only took us 15 mins. It was also a beautiful day to take in this small town which has a river running through it, dividing south and north.

We knew we were getting closer to the touristic center when random African men started coming up to us with watches and bags. This seems to be the trend in Italy. We've also been told though that although they are selling these items as if they are fake, sometimes they can be real because they are stolen goods. There are random police raids all the time on the streets and the men are prepared to quickly run. Often times they place the bags on sheets on the ground so they can easily pick them all up, sling them over their shoulder and take off before getting a ticket. Clearly these raids aren't proven to be effective.

The main attraction of Pisa is the leaning tower which is located among green pastures and a cathedral. Once up close the tower doesn't seem to be as lopsided. We had lots of fun trying to pose for pics and opted to go into the tower due to cheap budget. We browsed the market after wards which so far seems to be the same everywhere - lots of kitschy touristic crap.

The best meal we've had so far has been in Pisa, at a small restaurant where the pasta was incredible and less than 5 euros. Of course, we were in heaven. I also tried the Italian Martini drink which is very different from a real martini. A slice of fruit is placed in the drink which adds a lot of flavour.

Pisa is quite small and is well-known for it's university (for the locals). It's known to the world of course because of its tower. It's worth it for the day but it's not a place to come and stay.

The Smallest Country in the World

2009-12-21T18:31:00.027+09:00

You can't go to Rome without visiting the smallest country in the world - Vatican City!

It's located right in the city of Rome so getting to it is quite easy and you can walk among this country in just a day. It can't get any smaller than that!
The major attraction of Vatican City is St. Peter's Basilica which is how you can identify the 'country' from anywhere in Rome. VC is the holiest place for Catholics worldwide because the pope lives here along with all the top shots of the Roman Catholic religion.

St. Peter's is built is upon the crucifixion site of St. Peter himself. Once inside the basilica you can actually visit his tomb which is located beneath the church with special permission (request is required months in advance). The Basilica is heavily guarded with Swiss Guards - they must have the funniest uniforms known to guards in the world! They resemble jester suits and it makes me wonder why in the world all those colors are required.

You actually do have to pass through a pseudo immigration where you are checked. The line up to get into Vatican City can be very long at times and touts are EVERYWHERE from the moment you step into line. Many people are hanging around to give you tours in every language under the sun. Then again, this place is probably one of the biggest tourist attraction in the world which will require a tour, especially if you are not Catholic.

I have to say my favorite part of going to Vatican City wasn't the city itself, but the Angel Bridge which is adjacent to the 'country'. It is featured in the movie Angels and Demons (which was heavily referenced by Maria throughout our entire trip in Rome) and is a bridge that goes over the Treste river with beautiful angel statues which make you feel like you are in Romantic Rome.

When in Roma ...

2009-12-20T14:11:00.002+09:00

Rome is overwhelming. It's a very big city, one that is a mix of the old and the new which makes it very different and European. I adore the fountains in every corner and water taps that are placed randomly around the city.
Of course being the ancient capital, it is engulfed in historic monuments. Usually I take to this and absorb myself in the history, but for some reason I just don't have the energy to really see it all. I don't actually think it's quite possible to see it all.
We got a nice hotel close to the central station - Termini. From here most of the sights are walkable, but the daily bus pass isn't so bad either. It's been rainy on and off which can kill the tourist mood as well.
Trevi Fountain

Everything in Rome in expensive, from the food to admission. It is one of the most visited places in the world so go figure!
I refused to pay to go inside the Colosseum since we arrived there quite late but from the outside alone, it is pretty grand. It's when you are standing right there, in front of a real piece of human history that you realize how important Rome really is. It's mesmerizing to see how big the Colosseum really is as well, the pictures do no justice!
We stumbled upon the Roman Forum at night so we didn't get to see much of it because it's poorly lit. All of Rome is like an open air art museum. It's hard to figure out what is what but who cares when you are just staring at everything with awe.
My favorite site after the Colosseum was the Trevi Fountain. Too bad all the tourists ruin it because it seems this place is always jam packed, along with hawkers who want you to pay them 20 euros for a Polaroid.

The cobblestones, the thin crusted pizza, the delicious pasta, incredible wine, the patios filled with restaurants, large piazzas in every corner, and the wide array of churches are all what I thought of when I pictured Italy. This vision is has been quite accurate but for some reason the dash of tourism really takes away from what would otherwise be a lovely city.

You definitely need a guide book for Rome - perhaps even all of Italy due to its rich history which is still very prevalent everywhere you look. Italians of course are also very proud of their culture and it shows. But a surprising revelation was how multicultural Rome really is. There a massive population of Africans residing in Rome who speak fluent Italian and/or French. This was due to Italy's colonization of some African countries but like all other big cities, the cultures are divided and are quite possibly living on a status structure as well. I suppose some things do never change.

Europe's Sin City

2009-12-17T14:10:00.003+09:00

On route to Italy my friend Neeshu and I decided to stop by in the sin city capital of the world - Amsterdam. It was only about an hour flight from London for which we had to wake up extra early because Stanstead doesn’t even deserve to be called a London airport. It’s actually located about an hour by train outside of the city center, making it the biggest hassle to get to. But the first lesson of cheap Europe travel was learned: cheap flights equal airports in the middle of nowhere.

Dam Square

Luckily our Easyjet flight was right to the Amsterdam airport, only about 15 mins by train to the city center. The city center is where ALL the tourists are. It includes heaps of hostels, hotels, coffee shops (that sell coffee AND pot but no alcohol), restaurants, the red light district and bars. The fascination of all this would have left me in an ideal world if it weren’t for the nasty cold of winter that the Dam was wrapped in the whole time we were there. It was only 2 days but after hitting the coffee shops the cold only made us want to go back to our hostel and sleep.
Yes, we were lame and as a result I have 2 days that I have no real recollection of. I did participate in an educational walking tour and get ripped off at the Hemp museum which is literally a hole in the wall with some posters about how America shouldn’t be harsh on their drug laws. Of course I agree with the America part but you don’t have to charge tourists 8 euros for them to find, especially when the majority of them are Americans.
The walking tour took us slightly out of the tourist zone - we saw Anne Frank’s house, former penitentiaries turned shopping malls, and beautiful alleys of Dutch houses. The river is in every part of the city, making it very beautiful. The entire city is built around the river itself. Even with the cold, the beauty of the city can be appreciated.
Canals

What I enjoyed the most in Amsterdam (besides the pot) was the coffee and what they call Chocomel - hot chocolate with caramel. The choice of international cuisine was also a great treat!

What I learned about in Amsterdam is that if you spend less money on drug regulation and more on real crimes, than the residents will care less to mess with the ‘legal’ drugs. This means that most of the marijuana consumed here is by tourists and it’s probably the only reason it’s still legal today. From my experience it seems that the locals despise the fact that tourists come to their city to simply be high, party and perhaps have sex with the dolls in the glass houses. Of course I’m guilty and I regret not being able to learn more of the culture itself. But when you are visiting the city of sin, it’s had not to overindulge! The second time around it will definitely be different.

Eurotrip Begins!

2009-12-14T14:09:00.004+09:00

Finally it's xmas vacation and this means 3 weeks of pure bliss in Europe. Of course this isn't going to be so light on the pockets, but it is refreshing to think that I'll be in the western civilization, eating foods that I am used to with people from home.

the underground

First stop is London, to meet up with my friend Maria who is currently studying in uni there. I have been staying with her at her 'flat' in Uxbridge, a suburb that is about an hour and 30 minutes from central London by 'tube'. Although I have spent a summer in the UK before, I only spent a total of a few days scattered in London, and that too only in the tourist areas of central. So this really does feel like my first real time experiencing London on the whole.

Of course what is London without the party scene?! This culture truly is 'pissed' and I mean that in a good way - they really can handle their alcohol! It's a social custom that is accepted by everybody. My first night was spent braving the cold in 'fancy frocks' finding a club and then trying to figure out how the heck to get back to Uxbridge at 5am. It truly was an adventure because Maria and I ended up at Heathrow airport just in time to meet our friend Neeshu who was arriving to join us.
Even though there is a 24 hour info line that you can call in London to get bus route info, at the end of the day they do seem full of 'rubbish'. We were no where close to where we had to be but in due time, we did find our ways. My second night was spent partying it up in Leichester Square where all the tourists and locals go to mingle and dance. It's very lively on any given night and the place to go for cheap theatre tickets and excellent, cheap food.

enjoying cider at Hyde Park

Sightseeing is something you can't avoid in London. It's filled with so many things to do and see, it's really hard to get bored although the commuting can take a toll. Also, the sun sets in the winter at about 3pm so by the time we woke up and were ready to enjoy the day, it was night time!!
We still went out our way - first Buckingham Palace by night. I do believe it's over-rated but it was a must-see. The guards and blah blah blah. But now I'll never have to go back again!
The highlight of today was Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park. The park is lit up in colorful Christmas decor with rides, skating and loads of stalls selling hot foods and cider! We spent a few hours walking around and it really highlights the festive spirit. It's an excellent place for a date OR to hang with your girls.

My only gripe with London would have to be the bloody cold!! You'd think as a Canadian I'd have no problem but even with my down filled winter coat I've been freezing. This is partially due to the fact that the heating system in London is definitely faltering. The tubes are not heated enough at all so you still need to keep your hat and mittens on for the duration of your ride.

Portuguese China

2009-11-28T13:12:00.025+09:00

It's only an hour foiljet ride to Macau from Hong Kong. This place is also a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China. It used to be a former colony of Portugal and it shows in its architecture and fusion of delicious meals.

Luckily I found a couchsurfer (there is only one) who lives in Macau to stay with. Unfortunately he wasn't around much so I took my guidebook and ventured on my own. Macau is mainly two islands, I stayed on the main one. It's filled with casinos, and the smaller islands also have numerous beaches. The population isn't very much so mass transit consists of buses that are actually minivans. It's a bit odd and uncomfortable at first. Plus the bus stops aren't properly routed out. I waited for a bus for a while at one point and gave up not knowing where to go or what to do.
It was also tough to find English speakers because it's the mainland Chinese that come here to gamble so they make up the majority of the tourists.

Ruins of St. Pauls

After walking around the casino area in the sweltering heat, I hit up the downtown area of Macau. The casinos were pretty trippy because it looks so much like Vegas, since they have the same brands here. Downtown Macau is a whole other story; I felt like I warped into Europe suddenly. The city seems to be maintained well to preserve its European history. The ruins of St. Paul is the focal point of the city - it's the remaining wall of a church that is still standing. It's pretty cool to see and awesome that it's free.
I roamed around the alleys of shops and free samples of treats. I stuffed my face with egg tarts, I had about three in an hour. Finally I had to call it a day because the heat had taken a toll on me.

Macau is different in that its not well known and it's not much other than a casino destination. Yet it does have the potential to be much more but perhaps its undiscovered due to China's ownership of it. The foreign population is at a minimum and life seems to be slow-paced. What a difference from Hong Kong which is just an hour away!

British China

2009-11-27T12:16:00.005+09:00

Victoria Harbour by night

It's a surprise to me that Hong Kong is now officially part of China - other than the street signs it really doesn't even feel like I'm in Asia.

The buildings, streets, people and international food options are definitely more on the western side of things. No wonder this is a favorite destination for most foreigners!

Big Buddha

This morning I had an early start and headed to Lantau Island which is easily connected by the amazing subway system. You can get through 3 stops in less than 5 minutes, that is how small this city really is! Lantau island is also home to the international airport along with Big Buddha. The islands of Hong Kong are quite mountainous. Hiking is a beloved activity here among the foreigners. I was told by a Hong Konger that they only like to watch movies and go shopping because they are too lazy for physical activity.
I got to Lantau well before the cable car to the site of Big Buddha opened so I took the bus that basically drove round and round up the mountain. Once I got to Big Buddha the entrance was closed as well, but that meant that this tourist trap was totally empty. After a leisurely stroll thru the temple the gates finally opened and I climbed the 100 something stairs to the biggest sitting statue. The view from the top is awesome and you could even see the cable cars.

cable car ride to Lantau Island

Trying to find the cable car to head back down I stumbled through what seemed like 'Buddha Village', a man-made tourist town centered around the 360 cable car and Big Buddha. It was quite ridiculous and I felt totally out of place. How do you take a religious symbol, throw in a cable car and turn it into this touristic charade?
But of course I was giving into it as well, so I suppose unfortunately this sort of stuff does work. But really, this village part can be avoided.

This was my first time riding solo in a cable car and it was quite the experience. Just like in Taiwan, this ride was through the mountains and you could see the ocean as well as the airport. At one point I also saw the planes basically flying at par to where I was and I was quite freaked out to move throughout the whole 15 mins the ride lasted. They also had a glass floor option for the cable car which I wouldn't recommended if you have the same fear of heights as I do. This ride also goes over water!
Stanley Beach
After indulging in some shopping at the City Gate outlets which are located just outside the subway station on Lantau island, I headed back to Central to jump on a double decker bus towards the south part of Hong Kong island.
Due to the reclaimed land in the north, the coast is simply sludge. The south still has it's original coastline and that is where all the beaches lie. The 30 min ride to Stanley was incredible! The bus takes you over mountains and back down to what seems like a seaside resort. From the top floor of the bus you can see the sun decks and swimming pools of the rich who reside in this part of town.
Stanley is a great getaway with small beaches and a nice market. It's filled with tourists along with British styled pubs on the promenade. Stanley was once a fishing village which has now been turned into a waterfront paradise.

meeting my friends from Korea for some night time fun

After a bit too much sun I jumped back on the bus towards the bustling north and took a stroll in Wan Chai where I was told the best Hong Kong style tea can be found. This was actually a let down because after my first sip I realized that Hong Kong style tea is actually the SAME as Tamil tea - the secret is to use evaporated or condensed milk! It makes it sweeter and creamier. It's incredibly delicious but nothing new for my taste buds.
But Wan Chai is excellent because I had finally found a pocket in the city where I saw a traditional market, plus a whole lot of locals! People couldn't understand English and for a minute I was reminded that yes indeed, I am in Asia.
But that was quickly changed back to foreign fest as I went out to check out the night life in Soho with my co-workers and host. I do love the choices for international cuisine in Soho but Lan Kwai Fong, the most well-known spot for nightlife is lined with pubs and foreigners galore who are overflowing onto the streets. Drinks are expensive in Asian standards and it's SO easy to forget where you are.

Hong Kong is a lovely city but you do need cash to survive, and looks do seem to be pretty important. The usual backpacker look isn't going to suffice unless you get off the island and head to the outlying islands where I hear people are content living in harmony with nature.

A Quick Escape

2009-11-26T12:14:00.004+09:00

My first 4 days weekend since being in Busan and of course I decided to take advantage of it!
I've never really had a desire to visit Hong Kong but finally my frequent flier miles have accumulated for a free flight plus a few co-workers were also heading to the island for a conference, so what better time to go than right now?!

dim sum

Luckily I was able to couchsurf in Hong Kong where apartments are about the same size as they are in Korea, but before I met my host I met another HK couchsurfer who took me for some dim sum and escorted me to 'the Peak'. We took the tram up the mountain which is the wealthy residential area of Hong Kong. The tram literally goes up the mountain vertically and as you rise you realize how this bustling city is really just an island. Truthfully the peak is more of a tourist trap than anything else. Once you get to the top you have to pay extra to go to the viewing area where you get the full, unobstructed view which is really a load of crap with all the smog. The view is never clear.
the peak tram

The downtown area of Hong Kong (near Central station) is a lot like any major city: busy! But if there is one word to describe Hong Kong it would be 'shopping mall' (ok 2 words!). Everywhere you go, you need to go thru a shopping center or some sort of commercial area. Designer brands flood the city along with markets galore! Definitely a shopper's heaven. In this way it reminded me a lot of downtown Toronto and how all the subway stations are connected in some way to shopping areas. Plus the financial industry dominates so there is a mix of people creating a multicultural community who are in suits strutting the streets. It was a bizarre feeling, I might as well have been on Bay Street! Overall my first day in Hong Kong just felt like spending a day at Pacific Mall - Asians speaking English fluently, plus all the delicious Cantonese foods I'm used to from home, not the authentic stuff you get in mainland China.

At night I went to Victoria harbour to check out the infamous night skyline that Hong Kong is most known for. The view is the best from the Avenue of the Stars which is the HK version of the walk of fame, except it honors Hong Kongers in the film industry. The light show happens here daily at 8pm and it was quite the disappointment. The view of the harbour as you approach it on the Star ferry is incredible, and it's quite cool to be on the ferry that is part of HK history.

the 'view'

The harbour is also much closer now to the Kowloon side than it used to be years ago. This is due to the amounts of reclaimed that has been added. I feel that at some point in the future perhaps this harbour won't even exist.

Hong Kong is different in that it's quite historic yet so modern at the same time. It's a small place but with loads to do and see so I was feeling quite overwhelmed. Of course I wanted to do it all but at the end of the first day I had mixed emotions about the place. It was somewhere I could live BUT it lacked authentic culture. Every other person spoke with a British accent; it seems the British never really did leave their colony.

Pusan International Film Fest

2009-10-16T12:12:00.006+09:00

PIFF is one of the biggest film festivals Asia has ever seen. It's on par with most popular film fests of the world such as Cannes and Toronto, yet I had never known this till I attended this film fest this year for the very first time.

This event is what puts Busan on the international map. This year it took place from October 8-18th and many guest appearances were had, including Josh Hartnett. The screenings take place in 2 main areas of Busan: Haeundae and Nampodong. Because I live right smack in the middle of the Haeundae action I was able to attend 4 screenings, 2 of which I was able to meet the director and the cast.

This was my first time attending a film festival even though I am quite the film fanatic. This is partly due to the fact that in Toronto it is very expensive for screening tickets along with long line-ups. Tickets for PIFF are 5,000 won (less than $5) and can be bought about 2 weeks in advance BUT the popular movies of course sell-out in about an hour. You can still wait on the day of screening since they reserve 20% of the tickets, and if you are a real film junkie, then you WILL watch the movies you really want to.
More than 300 films were screened so there were plenty of options, but at the same time this selection can also be overwhelming. Most of the featured films were Asian, promoting the Asian film scene which we don't get most of in North America so it is quite refreshing. I got a chance to see a Bollywood movie, a Korean movie, a Japanese-Korean documentary and a Bangladeshi movie.

Reviews for the films I saw can be found at my personal blog:
Livejournal - Click HERE!

The Haeundae beach area fills up yet again with people from all over (not just Korea) with music and performances taking place as well. After beach season ends in August, this is the only time you would see it be busy again until the summer.
It's really awesome to see such a huge event take place so close to (my new) home. I really look forward to next year and hopefully being able to catch more films.

Home Sweet Korea

2009-09-29T12:04:00.002+09:00

It's been about 7 weeks since I arrived in Busan and it's been a whirlwind.
I had great plans of hiking, sightseeing, and exploring the city but so far all I have accomplished is lying on three beaches and getting to know the nightlife areas.

The expat community in Busan is a lot smaller than Seoul; somehow everyone knows each other no matter what part of Busan or greater Busan you live in. It makes for a more intimate community in a city setting. Busan is definitely more laid back and that promotes a chilled out vibe for the foreigners and the locals. Koreans here are the nicest I have encountered, always trying to help you and speak to you.
To make a comparison between Seoul and Busan, it would be easy to say that Seoul is east coast mentality (think New York city, high rises and men in suits always on the go, busy busy!) while Busan is west coast (beaches, mountains, relaxation is key!). So to choose a favorite is easy, especially because I live in Haeundae - the tourist beach resort type area of South Korea.

Haeundae

This easy going mentality can also be felt at my workplace which lets me lead a very stress free and simple life which I really am enjoying. It's refreshing and emotionally healthy and I can easily see myself never wanting to leave. If life was comfortable in Seoul, then I need a new word for comfortable in Busan!

Living in Haeundae means you don't really need to get on the subway. It's a walk to everything including work. The few times I have ventured into the downtown type area I am always amazed at how different everything is outside of Hauendae. This is because Haeundae is one of the newest extensions to the city and it looks and feels uber modern, while the rest of Busan is still somewhat stuck in postwar Korea.
When I visited Busan a few times last year I remember being amazed at how different the vibe was instantly, and this was even before I ventured into Haeundae.
Koreans tanning at Songjeong Beach
I'm very happy with the choices I have made thus far. Good things happen to those who wait and positive energy will always attract positive things. Living here with the friends I have met so far makes this statement very true!
Sometimes I can't believe how comfortable I am here, it really does feel like home.

T Dot O Dot

2009-08-04T12:01:00.006+09:00

Coming home is always something to look forward to, but this time I didn't get that anxious feeling in my stomach as the plane landed and I saw my hometown after 15 months. In that moment I knew that my love for Toronto had changed forever.

Before leaving home I knew I didn't belong. Every time I leave to travel and come home, I always feel like a different person and that Toronto just doesn't do it for me. But what keeps me coming back are my family and friends.

family

After 3 months of family and friend time, plus some exploring around Ontario and Quebec, I have yet to figure out what it is that just doesn't settle well with me here.
It could be that Torontonians are not as nice as the other Canadians; its a fast paced life which makes the city-goers keep to themselves. Although known for its multiculturalism, Toronto is more of a mosaic of segregated cultural groups rather than an explosion of culture where we all live in peace and harmony.
Most of all, I find that people in Toronto feel that we do have it all and feel that venturing anywhere out of here is unnecessary. This mentality forces them to live in a bubble which has a prime focus on a materialistic lifestyle, one that I can't believe I was probably feeding into at some point or another.

If I do move back to Canada, my soul will not be content in this city. It's a sad feeling when you learn that you have grown out of your hometown. Keep in mind my opinion of it is also based on living in the suburbs, but these days Torontonians can barely afford the real city life. This adds to the reason we stay in our bubble of comfort with people we've known all our lives. The security is there, but is it really good to be safe forever?

Cherry Beach

As I sit at Pearson airport not knowing when I'll return to my home and native (sort of) land there is no pang of sadness or regret. Just a wave of memories of all the good people I know I am leaving behind, who will maybe one day also get out of their comfort zone and venture to lands far away (hopefully to visit me!).

Toronto will always be what I call home, but that sense of pride to be a Torontonian has somehow escaped me. Perhaps I'll be more comfortable as a Busaner (did I just make that up).
Only time will tell!!

India ... mere jaan!

2009-05-05T15:08:00.008+09:00

I've read and heard tons of stories of people setting foot in India and being totally mystified. Until I came here myself, I found it hard to believe. Now, I can't imagine someone not feeling the mystical mist that is this country and everything it embodies.

vegetarian thali

Like any other major country with a population it can barely support, India as well has it share of great problems. But at the end of the day, there is just something about this land, something that no one seems to be able to put a finger on. Perhaps its the fact that you are among thousands of years of history, or the warmth of strangers, or maybe it's the delicious food that always puts a smile on peoples faces. Whatever it is, I know this was only my first visit to India and definitely not my last!

But like I said before, the good doesn't come without the bad.
The caste system still seems to be in full swing. Students are still required to fill in the caste box on a school application and tallies are made to report to the government. The divide between rich and poor only seems to be widening and education is not easily accessible especially when the parents themselves fail to see the value of it.

India is run on money. The poor need it to survive, the rich want it to be become powerful as the western countries. But if you have money, then this IS the place to be! You can easily afford a driver, a maid and a cook on an average Canadian salary.

students piling into an auto

And like all Asian countries, skin color will get you where you want to go! Of course they look up to the blue eyed blondes, but as an Indian you still need to make sure you are more fair (and lovelier) than your neighbour. Due to this prejudice the Tamils in South India can be classified as the Negroes of this land. Even though Tamil Nadu is one of the more wealthiest and literate state most Indian fail to have much respect for the Tamils or their culture. This is easily observed through the Tamil film industry where the female leads are almost always from the north. Even though they lack the language skills, the skin color opens doors.

Another thing I've seen in the movies but never realized till I saw it with my own eyes is the traffic. It's appalling that they haven't figured out a better system that works. There is just way too many people on scooters for this place. At times it's even scary to walk the street because of the crowds.
Mumbai sunset

The people of India are what makes the hearts of travellers melt. They are sincere and kind hearted (unless they are a tout!). Indians are always interested and asking questions. They even remember you the next day and will come up to you. It's the type of kindness I thought had died with the past.
They are simple minded people yet smart. Most Indians have to go to university to get a simple clerical position. They are studious and determined which is why the future of this country is the talk of the world. But can India dominate with such a lack of infrastructure internally? The problem is that it really is too big to manage and if each state was made its own country, I'm sure things will be better for the people. But as a country, they hold more power due to their size. It makes me wonder how different India will be in 20 years, especially with the IT industry and Bollywood taking on the world.

Rameshwaram temple

The people lead simple lives because its all that they know. It's about going to work to make money to eat and keep the family happy. Period.
Perhaps this is the key to happiness?!
The simplicity of the people is what makes them fall in love so easily, with no questions or expectations. Love is all they have. It's what makes them wake up in the morning and what gives them a reason to endure the hardships of life. They also don't question the government and have learned to make the most with whatever they are handed.
I wonder if the western culture was as simple at one point and if its merely a process of evolution to become more complex minded and desire more. If so, I believe this evolution is taking place among the wealthier Indians. Sooner or later the rest will catch on.

Dhanushkodi

While travelling I made a crude discovery - I'm BROWN!
I never really encountered another brown traveller from any of the western countries so after 2 months on my own and 2 weeks with a Spanish guy, I realized that people DO treat me differently. Even other travellers fail to acknowledge me because I'm easily mistaken for a local. I never expected my experience to be different simply because of my skin but it's a rude awakening to see how the world really is.

Silicone Valley of India

2009-05-04T15:06:00.005+09:00

If there is one thing I have learned from being in India for a month, that is to never underestimate the diversity of its cultures and people. I went from living in a town where we got daily power outages to Banglore, the IT capital of India. This city is like no other I have seen in Asia, let alone India. The IT parks are designed in the American fashion giving you an outer body feel while you drive through the Microsoft and Yahoo buildings. The streets are filled with boutiques, coffee bars, cafes and trendy restaurants.

I want to stop in my tracks and scream out 'where the hell am I?!'.

at a bad on the 13th floor, overlooking the city

Just kilometers away people are still riding around on bullock carts yet in this city Indians are deriving an income from calling American clients and speaking a western accent. The claim is that this is the future of India, but I refuse to acknowledge this as India at all. It is an elite bunch that seem to reside in this city, almost like the NYC of India, where you come to make all your dreams come true.

I was grateful to be couchsurfing with a native Mumbaiker who has been living in Banglore for a few years now. He knew the ins and outs when it came to where to hang, what to do. When it comes to sightseeing Banglore is definitely on the dud side. The only place worth seeing is not photograph-able from the outside (the Palace) and it was being used for a wedding at the time I visited.
Banglore is a green city though filled with parks and trees. This adds to the big city effect. It is not a city I can ever see myself living in.

Banglore sunset

I enjoyed the rides through the city with my host and having good chats while reflecting on what I have learned from being in India.
At the end of the day its not where you go that's the important part, it's definitely the people you meet and the moments you create that have a lasting effect.

New India

2009-05-02T15:04:00.001+09:00

Gateway to India

Mumbai is the new face of India. It's a cosmopolitan city in which 55% of the population live in slums. Contrast survives side by side with the most expensive properties in the world next door to aluminum boarded shacks. It's crowded, multi-ethnic, humid and crazy!

I stayed with a friend here who has been living here for a few years, in a suburb of Mumbai. As with all big cities Mumbai is also made up of several areas which make up the city, but the real Mumbai is really only the Colaba area which is the southern tip of the peninsula.

Taj hotel

People from all over India come to Mumbai in search of the Indian dream; to have a job and make some money to support their family, most of whom are from smaller villages. Hindi, Marathi and English are widely spoken along with pockets of many other Indian languages. Mosques, churches and temples fill the city along with trains. The metro is the lifeline of this busy city.

I only had 2 days to explore so I spent my first day in Colaba by the sea where all the main touristic sites are such as the Gateway to India, Chowpatty Beach and the Taj hotel. Mumbai also has a surprisingly good collection of art galleries. I checked out 2 galleries with an impressive collection of Indian art.

Colaba has a historic feel with the British architecture and English names of the streets. It's where Mumbai hangs out along with the tourists, and is the hub for backpackers. Most of what I know about this area actually comes from reading the novel 'Shantaram' (an excellent look into Mumbai life from an outside perspective).

My second day was spent in more of local area. We took a ferry across a creek to Manori beach. It has small resorts more for local tourists and is a pretty dirty beach filled with abandoned sandals. The heat is immense right now so we hit this place early in the morning but it still got hot by 10am. This area is filled with fisherman and we stumbled across the local town which had colorful houses and little temple, North Indian style. Walking through this area was very rewarding, reminding me of Virdhunagar because the people had a very basic lifestyle.

Mumbai seems like a new world altogether. It's the NYC of India where the elite live by the southern coast and the middle working class reside in the suburbs. Yet the Indian culture is still thriving through the various ethnic communities that have brought a lot of character to the city.

Thirty-Six Hours on a Train

2009-04-30T14:58:00.009+09:00

I took a train in sleeper class from Virdhunagar to Mumbai. The journey took 36 hours and is the quintessential Indian experience!

At first 36 hours seems like a lot of time... a day and a half, but it didn't not feel that long at all. I had a seat right by the window which was very lucky. Because I booked the ticket only a few days before, I had been on the waiting list until the day before I was due to leave. The train ticketing system in India is something I will never understand and is quite frustrating.

You can get everything you want on the train, and from your seat. Meals can be served to order and at every station stop there are vendors selling everything under the sun. People even come onto the trains to beg for money! I spent most of my time reading, listening to music and staring out the window lost in my thoughts at how vast and different this country is.

I fell asleep in Tamil Nadu and woke up in Karnataka. The scenery went from lush greenery to arid fields. A little after sunrise I was in Maharastra, where the train stations are very small and still stuck in the past. English was barely understood.
Although the toilets were Indian style, they weren't as gross as I had anticipated. My ass was sore which is inevitable after a long time of sitting but I definitely traveled comfortably.

Overall I felt very safe and the men who worked on the train serving meals were very sweet since they knew I was alone and made sure I was ok until the end. I don't think that personal touch of assistance can be given for free anywhere else.

The Real Deal Continues

2009-04-28T14:56:00.005+09:00

I've spent 10 days in Virdhunagar and have mixed feelings about the whole ordeal. The teachers I've met at the school are very sweet and kind. They have really left an impact on me. But being a foreigner sometimes just means money and I've been put in some awkward situations regarding the subject that has added a sour note. Being immersed in a real town atmosphere made me feel more strange at times than comfortable due to the stares and simple minded thinking of the people here. Then again, this was a real learning experience into the livelihoods of everyday Tamilians in India.

the outskirts of Virdhunagar

Along with teaching I was also able to visit some of the members that the charity I'm working with is assisting by providing them funds to start their own at-home business. They are mostly women who are housewives and are trying to make some money by building matchboxes and making incense. Visiting their homes was interesting especially to see first hand how small and inconvenient their living space was, yet they seem content. All the people I met had no idea where Canada was and were flabbergasted at the fact that I took a plane to India.

local children

It's appalling to see how little people still know in this time. Most of them have never come across a foreigner, especially the children so they are very interested and try to speak in the little English they know.
I also had the opportunity to visit the nearby village area by Virdhunagar with the teachers as they were soliciting to find new admissions. The village life seems quiet yet serene. The houses are a bit bigger than in the town and the people seem friendlier. The roads are easier to walk in and are filled with animals such as goats and chickens.

the streets of Virdhunagar

I'm really glad that I did come to Virdhunagar because I would not have had the opportunity to see and learn what I have here anywhere else. It's surreal to know how different the perspective of the world is from here, and how the people here live their life. The kindness I have endured here has made me proud to be Tamil.

The Southern Tip

2009-04-26T13:13:00.002+09:00

Kanyakumari is the southern tip of Tamil Nadu, very close to the Kerala border. It's most known as the spot where three seas meet: Arabic, Bengal and Indian. It's best to see it during sunset or sunrise. Unfortunately I missed both!

riding with the locals

I did a day trip to Kanyakumari taking the train early in the morning at 3am with a local girl I met while in Virdhunagar. We could only get unreserved tickets since we were purchasing it the day of travel, which meant I was riding with the locals in overcrowded compartments hoping for a seat.... on the ground! It was actually quite the experience.

Thiruvalluvar statue that stands 133 feet tall

We arrived by 8am and headed to the main attraction which is the temple (what else would it be in India?). This temple is also very old and men are required to take off their shirts as respect to the goddess. The statue of the goddess is most famous for her shimmering nose ring which illuminates the temple. The whole temple does not use electricity, instead it is lit using traditional oil lamps which gives it the real feel as if it were still the 1600's.
The other main attraction in Kanyakumari are the islands that are dedicated to 2 great men of India : Vivekanada Swami and Thiruvalluval, a Tamil poet. It's a mission and a half waiting in line amidst the crowd to board the ferry which takes you to the island, but definetly worth it. Vivekanada Mandapam is very peaceful and temple-like. There is also a meditation room in which I almost fell asleep in. The statue of Thiruvalluvar is enormous and I'm sure it's a quite the site during sunset.

Kanyakumari has a lot of other sites but are a ride away. Due to my tiredness I was pleased with just being able to go there and soak in some ocean air. It's a pity that swimming in these oceans is forbidden.

The ride back in the unreserved train of the womens only compartment was a riot! There was pushing and shoving, people falling and women yelling. Luckily we got some seats on the top berth this time instead of one the floor. Getting out of the train was the real battle as old women (in their 60's) were pushing the door and not letting me get out of the train. I had to jump out the other way on to the tracks before the train began to move. It was a scary yet unique experience which I don't think I would encounter in any place in the world.

The Real Deal

2009-04-21T12:55:00.004+09:00

My adventures with David in India have come to an end as David returned to Germany a few days ago, and I have moved on to Virdhunagar, a town about 40 minutes south of Madurai. I am volunteer teaching at a local private school for the next 2 weeks. Although the school is private it caters to the underprivileged offering free education to those that can't afford and also charges very low class fees. After coming here I have learned a lot about the Indian education system.
learning to print in English

I'm teaching spoken English to children from the age of 4 - 9 years old. I enjoy being in the company of children again. Knowing the local language of Tamil has enhanced my experience here, where not many people are educated past high school and are very limited in their English knowledge.
This town is very simple and also poor. Teachers earn about 1000 rupees ($25) a month. They wear simple sarees and work 6 days a week. Entertainment consists of watching TV at home with the family, or sitting around and talking to neighbors. Technology still seems pretty new here as I just taught an admin staff here how to use email and helped her get an email address. Electricity outages happen daily from 4-6 pm. Water is a scarce resource for which there are daily arguments. People stare at me with awe when I say I need change for a 500 rupee note.

the students I am teaching

It seems completely opposite to everything I have seen thus far in India. Being a tourist you are definitely in a bubble and now this bubble has popped. There is no A/C, I feel dirty ALL the time even though I take 2 showers daily, finding a western toilet is like digging for gold, and the only form of real entertainment is the movie theater.

the town temple, every town has one!

this one is dedicated to the Hindu god Muruga

Can it get more real than this?

The Eastern Tip

2009-04-17T12:50:00.012+09:00

Rameshwaram is the eastern most tip of India, the closest to Sri Lanka I can ever get (on this trip). A lot of Tamil refugees come to Rameshwaram on small boats sailing through the gulf of Mannar. It is actually an island which is now connected to the mainland by a bridge that was completed only 20 years ago. The people who live here are mainly fisherman who reside in straw houses in sandy little villages.

getting theertham poured on me

We were lucky enough to take a day trip there from Madurai because of our driver. It took 3.5 hours each way and highways are non-existent in this country which makes the drive a lot less pleasant for the backside yet quite amusing visually as towns and villages pass you by.
Rameswaram gets loads of tourist from the country due to its main temple which is believed to be built by Rama after returning from Lanka from where he rescued Sita.
the truck we rode in to Dhanushkodi

We had the most unpleasant experience at this temple because of a tout who immediately took us into the temple and began pouring water on us. This temple has 22 theerthams which are little wells which devotees believe were created by Rama's arrows. It is considered to be holy water and you must cleanse yourself with the water from each them. The tout in his broken English made us believe that he worked for the temple (he did have an ID card) and began taking us around and pouring water on us. At the end of it he asked us to pay him 500 rupees! The board on the outside of the temple states that the fee is only 22 rupees and if anyone is asking for more to report them to the police. After bickering with him for almost 30 minutes we walked out of the temple with the tout following us. We came across a police officer and after stating our case, he simply told us to pay the guy 100 rupees after the tout lied to the officer and said he only asked us for 150 rupees.
I suppose it is inevitable to see the bad side of India - the one I have read and seen in the movies, the one that's out to get you if you have even a little bit of money, the one that is exploiting tourists, even in temples!
Sure enough David and I were more than a little annoyed with this incident. Then again, with so many people how can you exercise morals and ethics? The irony is how religious these people are, how often they go to temples and pray and really believe in their religion, yet they are still able to turn around and exploit people for the sake of survival. It's hard for me to judge since I have luckily never been such a state, but it definitely leaves a sour taste in your mouth.

Dhanushkodi ruins

The other temples we visited were much smaller, only one altar for the god and very quiet. I really enjoy going to Hindu temples due to its colorful liveliness. Even the small ones seem very peaceful yet are still beautiful with the statues, the kolams (floor art), paintings on the walls and ceilings and the colorful sarees on the statues.

The most eastern tip of Rameshwaram is Danushkodi. You can only go there on a an industrial truck, the equivalent to a 4x4 since there are no roads, just sand. The whole area is beachy with the ocean on both sides. It's always windy and the sand is fine and white. I was shocked that this place has not been exploited for tourism yet. The waves are enormous and the water is teal.
Danushkodi has remains of churches, ironically and lots of locals selling homemade souvenirs such as pearl necklaces and seashell jewelery. It's a quiet place and there seems to be more local tourism in this area. Children run around naked and go to the bathroom wherever they please. It's simple life at its best!

straw homes on the beach

Rameshwaram is the least touristic place I have been in India thus far and it was quite refreshing.

City of Temples

2009-04-16T12:48:00.008+09:00

We couch surfed in Madurai for 2 days with a guy who let us stay at his guesthouse even though he wasn't there to meet us. I've come across surfers like this before in my travels but this was a little bit different because not only did we have a place to stay without the host, but we also got full use of his personal driver! It was the real royal Indian experience.

At first David and I felt quite uncomfortable with people addressing us as 'sirs' and 'madams' but sightseeing Madurai in an A/C car was definitely something we got used to. After being treated like royalty in Allepey, it felt just as good to let the trend continue even though at moments we did feel guilty for feeling so spoiled.
The downside of having someone take you around from your doorstep is that you don't really get to experience the city, to know where things are and have the cultural experience amidst the local crowd. Although we did get to experience the upper class cultural experience of having more touts approach us as we stepped out of the car, as well as the surprising gasps when I spoke in Tamil.

Madurai is known as the city of temples and is one of the oldest cities in India. The main temple is what everyone comes here for and it is a beautiful labyrinth of statues. The city is centered around the Meenakshi Amman temple and its as lively as ever. Organized Chaos took on a whole new meaning in Madurai as we watched life go crazy from the inside of our car. To add to the mix of cars, trucks, autos, bikes, and scooters there were also ox carts pulling goods, rickshaws, more cows and goats, sometimes monkeys near temples and dogs. In the midst of all this chaos I was grateful to be sitting in a car with a driver who knew what he was doing. It also makes sense why people have drivers if they can afford it.
The amusing thing is that there is never an accident! Everyone knows what they are doing and take extra care in avoiding it which makes life a teeny bit more efficient.

Our day in Madurai was pretty chaotic. We visited 3 temples (Alagar Kovil which is a few kms away from Madurai, a lot smaller but old and beautiful) followed by a palace (which was under construction so it made no sense as to why it was open), then did some much needed shopping since I was in dire need of some cultural clothing. Tailors are in every corner so prices are very cheap. It was actually pretty overwhelming and I feel the need to return to Madurai just for the shopping.

Twenty-Four Hours on a Houseboat

2009-04-15T12:46:00.005+09:00

Spending a night on a houseboat is one the list of 10 things to do before you die. Of course it all seems a little over rated, right? WRONG!!

houseboat on the backwaters of Allepey

For 4500 rupees David and I got a one bedroom houseboat equipped with 3 men for 24 hours. These men drove the boat, cooked us food (lunch, tea, dinner and breakfast) and took care of us as if we were royalty. They also took us to the toddy shop on the banks of the waterways to pick up some local liquor made from coconuts (I'm still not too clear on how exactly it's made but the process is similar to fermenting grapes). The liquor itself was gross; as David put it - it looks and tastes like semen.

living the life of luxury

They drove us to the backwaters of Allepey for about 6 hours. It was a beautiful cruise where you pass by locals villages and watch as daily life unfolds. Women were washing their clothes, children were bathing and playing, men were drinking toddy and chilling out. Meanwhile I was reading and staring out at nature from the terrace of the boat. Life doesn't get any sweeter than this.

At 8pm the stopped the boat for the night by a little village. Some local boatmen come around in small canoes in which you can explore the small canals. We did this as the sun was setting and it was absolutely stunning!
The night on the boat wasn't as great; we were swarmed with geckos and mosquitoes. In the middle of the night there was a downpour .. and in the morning we had about an hour on the waterways before they took us back to Allepey.

This was by far one of the most amazing experiences I've had. It's very relaxing and you get to absorb some of the most beautiful scenery. It's again something that can't be explained, it's something to be felt and experienced.

God's Own Country

2009-04-14T12:43:00.006+09:00

The state of Kerela is known as God's own country due to its lush greenery and beautiful backwaters. The first change I noticed was the language; I was lost yet again amidst the signs in Malaylam which are just as curvy as Tamil yet so different.
The plan was to only spend a night in Cochin but somehow it turned into two, mainly due to laziness and the fact that we somehow managed to gain an extra day on our itinerary.
David and I stayed at a homestay which felt more like an overpriced motel room. There was nothing homely about it other than the dinky little rooms. Fort Cochin seems to have an abundance of these so-called homestay type accommodations.

I have been a long time believer in Lonely Planet and till now it has never failed me. For some reason the Kerela section seems flawed in every way, as if the writer had never even been here. I felt the same for some parts of Tamil Nadu that we went to (especially Pondicherry) but I have now lost complete faith in LP; the restaurants recommended are not worth it, and the map is not reliable. This definitely made our stay in Cochin a little unpleasant. Luckily we met some couchsurfers who were able to give us the inside scoop and we ended up hanging out with the whole time we were here.

Fort Cochin is infamous for its Portuguese and Dutch influence which is still evident in its architecture. The houses and churches especially. It's actually an island with bridges and ferry connections to the main land area known as Erankulum (a very busy main city). There is a mosaic of religions who survive harmoniously in this place - Muslims, Jews, Christians and Hindus.
We also had a chance to watch the traditional Kerelan dance - Kathakali. There are a lot of similarities to the Tamil traditional dance of Bharathanatyam such as the hand gestures and the facial expressions, but Kathakali is much slower paced and it always tells a story which can go on for hours. We saw a performance specifically for tourists so it was only one hour long (thank goodness!) and features of the dance was explained making it much more enjoyable.

Basilica

Fort Cochin is like every other place we have been so far on this trip - a tourist attraction! The small city is catered towards houseboat tours, internet cafes, international cuisine, tailor shops and souvenir markets. I'm getting quite sick and tired of all the touts trying to sell us stuff everywhere we go.

Another discovery I have made in Kerela is about the food - it is very similar to the Sri Lankan cuisine. They eat appams (hoppers), stringhoppers and pittu which are very hard to find in Tamil nadu. After speaking with the Csers I've realized that they also were unaware of this fact.

Escape from the Heat

2009-04-11T12:40:00.009+09:00

our cottage

It was due time to escape the heat; I have been immersed in it for over 6 weeks! Like all Indians do in the summer time (and as the British Raj used to do) we also headed to Kodaikanal, a hill station close to the Kerela border, 2000 and a bit more feet above sea level which took the bus over 2 hours to reach the top.
You can notice the change in temperature instantly! The air is fresh and hills are filled with clearing mist, especially in the morning. We felt this was a good place to splurge so we stayed at a resort right on the tip of Coacker's Walk, which is on the very edge of the hill, with panoramic views of the towns below.
Kurunji temple

Kodaikanal is another town filled with tourists, domestic and international, even though Lonely Planet claims it to be one of the quieter hill stations to escape the heat. There is a very international vibe in this place due to its international school community from which the town has grown over the years. It's almost like you are in another world due to this atmosphere of cool weather, international cuisine and the numerous languages that are spoken here.

Kodai Lake

It's the perfect place to come to do nothing at all but soak in the beautiful views of green India while feeling like you are on the top of the world, literally!
David and I also gave into doing a day tour because the hills are quite windy with one way streets which means no autos (believe it or not!) and expensive taxis (minimum 60 rupees). Within 5 minutes of getting on to our tour bus/truck we realized the mistake we had made. It took our tour guide/driver over an hour just to pick up all the passengers!! We got 20 minutes in each spot and half way through there was a downpour which left us all soaking and muddy, but the tour must go on. For $6 (for 2 people) we got to see all the sights (Bear Chola falls, suicide point, Guna caves, Coacker's Walk, Kurinji temple, Bryant Park, the lake) with every single other person in Kodaikanal!

walking into the mist

Through backpacking (although these days it seems more like we are flashpacking with all these nice hotel rooms) I have learned the skill of killing time by doing nothing at all. This is due to the long gaps of waiting for things - buses, trains, planes, boats, people to meet/pick you up. David and I had 8 hours to kill before catching our bus to Cochin so we decided to walk around Kodaikanal lake, about 6 kilometeres, something I would never do with a conscious mind. Somewhere along the way we danced with cows, peed in the bushes and came to the realization that we missed the heat, a lot. The 2 days of rain weren't helping with our travel plans although the cool down was much needed. But I was in layers in Kodaikanal, and this is summer! It was basically like being in Toronto but with better views and misty skies.

A French Colony

2009-04-08T12:29:00.012+09:00

After a night in Mahabalipurum David and I headed down the ECR towards Pondicherry which is a former French colony and is considered an autonomous state where French is actually an official language.
We had planned to take the state bus to Pondicherry like we did from Chennai to Mahabalipurum (and it cost a whole of $1 for 2 people!!) but you really need to know how to jump onto buses to do that since the bus will only stop for a whole of 5 seconds. So after a failed attempt at that with out backpacks in tow, we gave into paying a driver to drive us there in under 2 hours. The ECR is the scenic route so it was quite pleasant to pass through small villages, a river and a salt field.

Pondicherry was recommended to me by numerous different people, perhaps because it has more of a foreign vibe than any other place in South India. The beach itself is nice to sit and watch the waves roll in. There is no sandy bit but it seems that at night the entire town hangs out by the ocean front. The city is quite alive as the road by the sea is closed off to vehicles. Bharathi park in the middle of the city is also lively with locals who just like to hang out.
Another re-occuring theme: Indians enjoy hanging out. In this heat there is nothing better to do than just that!

Auroville is a self-sufficient community a few kilometers from Pondicherry. It stretches across a vast area of land amidst some local villages. We stumbled across it while spending some time at a real beach (as in one with sand) and spoke to a frequent visitor there who has totally sold me the idea of it. People from over 60 different countries live in this community along with Tamils in what is called a human experiment. I am now intrigued to return to Auroville the next time I am in India although I feel that being in a community like this you would not feel like you are in India at all. It must be something on a whole other level because it seems like a different world when you step out of their gates (which is heavily guarded).

Serenity Beach

It's basically a hippie community - living in huts, everyone doing their own bit to help out, meditation and yoga (and perhaps other things to reach the other realm). It's surprising to me that a project such as this is not very well known and it has flourished quite well over the past few years.